Recommend a hybrid bicycle - £300ish

tbourner

I'll be looking for a bike this year, probably via the cycle to work scheme (through Halfords).

My route is about 50% roads and 50% gravel tree-lined footpath.

I'm not sure if the footpath angle means I'd be better off with knobbly tyres or at least 26" wheels? What's the difference in terms of riding with 26" or 700c wheels? Does it just allow knobblies or not, or is it to do with rolling radius being better for road/off-road? I know a footpath is hardly knobbly territory but on thin tyres I feel a bit vulnerable especially when there's wet leaves dropped all over!

Next thing is weight, I've got about 18m ascent to do over a few miles, so I'd like something as light as possible. No idea what that means I need to look at in terms of brakes/wheels/gears/anything else? Or is it just the frame that makes up the weight?


Sorry I know that's a lot and you'll probably say to go and sit on some to find one I like, I probably will do that, was just after some opinions on what other people have.

MsHoarder

When you say "footpath", I hope you mean "cyclepath" or "bridleway", you can't cycle on a footpath. If it is a cycleway, then you should be fine with fairly smooth standard hybrid tires. Note that smaller wheels and knobblier tires have a slower and less smooth ride on the roads than road tires do. Knobbly tires are more for getting a grip in slippery mud, rather than gravel/leaves.

In weight terms, an 18m ascent you won't really feel after a week or so. Try out the options in the bike shop (for £300 there won't be that many) and see which you like the feel of best. For riding to work every day you may find reliability/durability more important than weight.

If you have a choice about the cycle to work scheme, try to get an independent bike shop or at least Evans on your voucher rather than Halfords, so you're more likely to deal with someone who knows how to put a bike together properly.

reduceditem

This is one of those happy times when someone has started a thread asking the EXACT question I've been pondering myself.

Was thinking of getting a new bike and had decided on a hybrid. Don't really want to spend more than £300 as I won't use it that much.

Bring on the responses!

tbourner

MsHoarder wrote: »

When you say "footpath", I hope you mean "cyclepath" or "bridleway", you can't cycle on a footpath.

Yeah it's a pedestrian and cycleway, sorry we just call it a footpath round these parts!

MsHoarder wrote: »

If you have a choice about the cycle to work scheme, try to get an independent bike shop or at least Evans on your voucher rather than Halfords, so you're more likely to deal with someone who knows how to put a bike together properly.

Wish I could! That's why I'm asking on here I suppose as I don't trust Halfrauds much with anything. They can order any bike in apparently so I don't have to go for their 'own brand' rebranded stuff.

TiTheRev

Considered this a couple of years ago myself. Ended up plumping with a light MTB, 27 gears to deal with the hills etc and put some 'hybrid' tyres on it that would cope with the road easily and even the odd muddy trail/cyclepath. I can keep up with the road bikes, but also use the cyclepaths as short cuts where the road/hybrid bikes would have to stick to tarmac.

Went to Evans and got a last year model, with good spec but last years colour & price!

MsHoarder

tbourner wrote: »

Wish I could! That's why I'm asking on here I suppose as I don't trust Halfrauds much with anything. They can order any bike in apparently so I don't have to go for their 'own brand' rebranded stuff.

Oh, the other detail is that if you aren't a 40% tax payer you won't save that much money. In Halfords you will have to buy a full price bike, whereas a lot of bike shops have reduced stock ("last year's"). The saving on that is often almost equal to what you saved through the cycle to work scheme, but without the interest free loan and the unknown charge at the end.

TiTheRev

MsHoarder wrote: »

Oh, the other detail is that if you aren't a 40% tax payer you won't save that much money. In Halfords you will have to buy a full price bike, whereas a lot of bike shops have reduced stock ("last year's"). The saving on that is often almost equal to what you saved through the cycle to work scheme, but without the interest free loan and the unknown charge at the end.

Saying that, the Boardman range are very good, and if you can get one of those from Halfrauds for the same price as last years model from A.N.Other seller, then you will be getting a very good deal.

poontang

tbourner wrote: »

I'll be looking for a bike this year, probably via the cycle to work scheme (through Halfords).

My route is about 50% roads and 50% gravel tree-lined footpath.

I'm not sure if the footpath angle means I'd be better off with knobbly tyres or at least 26" wheels? What's the difference in terms of riding with 26" or 700c wheels?

26" wheels have better acceleration but lower cruising speed. On the road 700c will definitely be better, as for the path, if it's fairly smooth (not ridiculously bumpy, with tree roots growing over the path), the 700c will also be better. If you are going to be doing a lot of starting and stopping, the 26" wheels will help a bit with the acceleration - but it doesn't matter that much really. With narrow tyres fitted there are plenty of cyclists doing 100 miles+ trips on 26" wheels

The tyres are more important - you almost certainly want to avoid knobbly ones, they are very slow and designed for mountain biking, or, at the price range you are looking at, for cosmetic purposes basically.

Something like this is going to provide good enough grip:

http://www.conti-tyres.co.uk/conticycle/ti%20city%20contact.shtml

This kind of design will be a bit slower:

http://www.conti-tyres.co.uk/conticycle/ti%20travel%20contact.shtml

but you don't want any more tread than thaat.

If you are looking at 26" wheels, look for 26x1.5 or 26x1.75 - no wider than that. On a 700c bike look for something reasonably wide and you should be fine.

Next thing is weight, I've got about 18m ascent to do over a few miles, so I'd like something as light as possible. No idea what that means I need to look at in terms of brakes/wheels/gears/anything else? Or is it just the frame that makes up the weight?

More money spent gives you better, lighter components.

But 18m is not much.

You could try this: http://www.decathlon.co.uk/EN/riverside-5-men-s-141401402/

Though not sure about the wisdom of a suspension fork...

This is a bit more

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_551233_langId_-1_categoryId_165534

but it comes with hub gears (which would cost 200 pounds just for the hub separately) which will save on maintenance time/cost

poontang

Gandalfthesecond wrote: »

He's the expert.

"Mind that child".

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ArrnmbgEBs

Tucker

I bought a hybrid a few years back for cycling to work and unless you are off roading proper, then a hybrid is the way to go. So many people buy mountain bikes and never use them on the terrain they are meant for and should really be on a hybrid.

I bought the older version of this:

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/ridgeback/velocity-2010-hybrid-bike-ec021098

Shop around as you'll get it for less and I bartered one down to £270 and it's stood the test of time and is a good ride for the money.

Read the reviews on the link...... that's best way to judge anything and they are all good.

You can easily spend 3 times that on a bike, but in your budget, this is worth the cash and I can personally vouch for it 3 years down the line, providing you look after it and clean and maintain it with GT80 or similar.

Tucker

By the way, I don't want to poo poo Halford's but seriously, look at a professional bike shop instead.

My cycle to work scheme uses a decent specialist bike shop. I wouldn't touch a Halfords bike.