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really UN- level kitchen floor and no money..!
tugrin
Posts: 466 Forumite
Hello
After a great effort and a bit of help from a neighbour I have managed to clear my kitchen floor. Originally it had carpet on one side, then an aluminium gripper rod embedded into the tiles that were on the other side.
Carpet side was easy and floor has obviously been levelled with something which maybe latex based as it's not rock hard. Today started on the tiles and gripper rod. Phew what a can of worms I've opened up. Any screeding/levelling comp has just come up
with tiles leavinf a seriously bumpy and rather powdery floor. All I can afford to do at the moment is paint (have paint already) BUT what on earth can I do with this concrete moonscape??? I would probably have a go at a self levelling job but could really do with advice on which one - a thick bed one??
After a great effort and a bit of help from a neighbour I have managed to clear my kitchen floor. Originally it had carpet on one side, then an aluminium gripper rod embedded into the tiles that were on the other side.
Carpet side was easy and floor has obviously been levelled with something which maybe latex based as it's not rock hard. Today started on the tiles and gripper rod. Phew what a can of worms I've opened up. Any screeding/levelling comp has just come up
with tiles leavinf a seriously bumpy and rather powdery floor. All I can afford to do at the moment is paint (have paint already) BUT what on earth can I do with this concrete moonscape??? I would probably have a go at a self levelling job but could really do with advice on which one - a thick bed one??
debt free 2021 at current DMP rate[/COLOR] (probably be in an old peoples home by then)
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Comments
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Bad news - self levelling compound is only designed to level a floor and then be covered with another surface - it's not designed to be the surface itself and wouldn't stand up to the wear of just being painted.0
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what are you actually putting down on the floor eventually?
a cheap and cheerful method is to use sheets of hardboard to level off the floor first.
8x4 hardboard is dirt cheap.Get some gorm.0 -
Thans to you both for replying - eventually I would liketo put cork tiles down - but thats way in the future. It is VERY bad news about the SLC not being up to it. Looks like Ive done another stupid thing (as wel as getting in so uch debt I cant afford someone to coe and do it properly I ean). What about plywood - I hate hardboard - but I suppose thats v expensive too. Oh dear.debt free 2021 at current DMP rate[/COLOR] (probably be in an old peoples home by then)0
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What about putting vinyl down? You can get some really cheap basic vinyls, especially if you get a remnant. If you used the hardboard as Ormus suggests with some vinyl on top, that might work out cheaper than the equivalent area of self levelling compound anyway.0
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Have a little faith, all is not lost!
You can buy self Levelling compounds that are specifically designed for high traffic areas and are hard wearing.
I have used this one: http://www.wickes.co.uk/High-Performance-Levelling-Compound/invt/154134
Was easy to mix and you just pour it and let it settle and just finish off with a float to get a nice smooth surface.
£20 a bag or there abouts and is a nice and easy quick job.
If the subbase is a latex Levelling compound then ideally you should use the same as I'm not too sure whether the high performance compound will bond with the existing layer.0 -
Wow thanks foxwales - this sounds like the answer to a maidens prayer! I think I can just about manage this stuff and looking at the reviews it looks just the job.
Dander - I already have the concrete paint (Regal paints - its very good but smelly) and there is a lot of sawing involved (I don't know why I mentioned plywood!!) and from past experience my techniques are really poor and then when you get to lay vinyl - don't ask! At least with tiles you dont ruin the whole floor at once.
I feel quite positive about the project now THANKS GUYS - you made an 'old woman' very happy!!debt free 2021 at current DMP rate[/COLOR] (probably be in an old peoples home by then)0 -
Don't forget when you come to paint it, that most floor paint needs 24/48 or even up to 72 hours to cure completely, so the kitchen will be out of action for that length of time. Don't believe what it says on the tin. The last time I used some it said could be walked on in 24 hours - I tried and it left an imprint of my shoe! I ended up having to leave it a good 72 hours for it to be completely cured.
Olias0 -
So it's 8.35 and the floor has been levelled!!!! My hands feel like alligator skin ( I should probably have worn gloves right?) but it's done and I am reasonably happy with it.
Olias - I have had that experience with some nasty floor paint from homebase - I think is was international and I agree its a total lie about drying time, however the stuff from Regal paints does what it says etc AND dries in about an hour so I should be back using the kitchen by this time tomorrow - which is good because I'm sick of crisps and biscuits which was the only thing I could reach in the cupboard at one point!
THANK YOU FOR ALL YOU HELP CHAPS.debt free 2021 at current DMP rate[/COLOR] (probably be in an old peoples home by then)0
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