Replacing an oven

Peter_Lanky

I am considering purchasing a new oven (Zanussi ZOB580N) which will be an identical replacement for the built-in oven I already have, albeit 17 years more modern. However, the oven I am looking at, and many others it seems are not supplied with any wiring, to try to force people to use an electrician.

I am not an electrician, but am quite capable of certain electrical tasks such as hard-wiring an appliance and adding sockets correctly to a ring main, whereas I could not rewire a house or install a new fuse box for example. However, I have no idea just exactly how difficult not supplying the wiring makes the job for me.

Please could I have some guidance from somebody who has done the job successfully as to whether I am in a position to do this myself, providing I purchase the correct cable.

snax

I just used the existing wiring that my old oven was connect to - no need to buy a new cable.

Peter_Lanky

snax wrote: »

I just used the existing wiring that my old oven was connect to - no need to buy a new cable.

Was it straightforward to connect the wiring to the cooker (as opposed to the wall box)? i.e. nothing unusual that only an electrician would know about.

I will probably get some new wiring of the same specification seeing as this is 17 years old.

ormus

deleted. stupid zanussi website.

sillygoose

Your existing oven should have enough cable to be able to pull it out, I have always found a B&D Workmate about right to rest it on whilst I disconnect. Remove old oven. Put new one on workmate, hook up, should be simple twin and earth cable although heavier. You might want to check the wattage of your current against the new oven is comparable before starting by the way).

Avoid any unnecessary bending or straightening of the cable, it will be thick strands that are easier break and at an ovens power level you don't want to reduce the cables capacity or cable will overheat. Make sure you use any cable clamp or restraint on the new oven. Slide the new oven in place ensuring the cable isn't trapped, sat on or squashed too much (often it can nicely drop down behind the lower units backing panel. Screw the side screws in and its done. at first power up to be absolutely sure you should test the case metal work isn't live, beforehand do a quick earth continuity test between the casing and another earth point (the screws on a socket may be earthed if screwed into a metal backbox for instance.)

annie

Just bought a new Siemens built in oven. Taken out the old oven and intended using the original cable which has three wires, earth and the black and the red. The new oven has three terminals at the back. the Earth and two numbered 1 and 2 a black wire is going into the term 1 and a blue wire going into the term 2, the instruction manual doesn't show a wiring diagram. Just want to clarify the correct method. Any help please.

Jojo_the_Tightfisted

annie wrote: »

Just bought a new Siemens built in oven. Taken out the old oven and intended using the original cable which has three wires, earth and the black and the red. The new oven has three terminals at the back. the Earth and two numbered 1 and 2 a black wire is going into the term 1 and a blue wire going into the term 2, the instruction manual doesn't show a wiring diagram. Just want to clarify the correct method. Any help please.

Can't say what yours is like - but my new oven's cable layout into the back was NOT the same as a three pin plug.

ormus

L1 is live. as is any terminal in the same block. could be L1 L2 L3 etc...
the next block will be the neutral, sometimes marked L4 or L5.

E = Earth is usually marked pretty well.

martinthebandit

This might help

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/fitting_electric_oven.htm

keystone

martinthebandit wrote: »

This might help

You on commish for every time you mention UHM?

Cheers

scarydeath

Surely it's worth paying the few quid for an electrician to come round and wire it in if you're not 100% certain?

... And then watch him every second so that you can do it yourself next time