can upright be moved?

hotcookie101

our kitchen has a 1.8m (ish) run of worktop, which used to house intergrated fridge and freezer undercounter in 1 section, then there is an upright bit of wood/hardboard/chipboard/laminate (not sure how to describe it-looks like it is the side of a cupboard, but its not. This is attached to the worktop, then there is an intergrated tumble dryer, which we are replacing with a regular one. (the space where fridge and freezer were now houses undercounter freezer and dishwasher.

Its a VERY tight squeeze where the TD is, and I'm worried we'll have difficulty fitting the new one in.

The worktop is attached either end with right angle plates (one end to wall and one end to tall kitchen cupboard. Do you think that the upright in the run is likely to be structural-can a 1.8m run of worktop be supported either end only (it may have some at the back, I don't know) Worktop is only laminate...

Thanks in advance

ETA there are 2 right angle plates on the back of the work top in the 1.2m section, not sure behind the TD as we haven't got it out yet (stupidly placed plug socket needs fascia taken off to allow enough room to get it out-its a poorly planned kitchen(not by us might I add) The upright doesn't seem to be bolted to ground, but I can't be sure as there is vinyl on one side, and would need to pull out (and unplumb) DW to check

caveat_emptor

Is it possible to support the worktop on the freezer/dishwasher/TD?

hotcookie101

I'm not sure. The worktops seem to have been fitted above the average height for normal worktops (NEVER buy a house from a builder ) so there is a gap of about 4-5cm between the tops of appliances and work tops (not just on this run, the washing machine is too, and the free standing cooker is 4cm below the work top-makes cleaning up tricky-would be better the other way round :mad:)
So if I was to try and move them lower we would have to retile as they only go to the top of the work top, and reseal/regrout etc, which is beyond our DIY capabilities...

caveat_emptor

Use 5x5cm (2x2 in old money) timber to go between worktop and machine underneath. One in a 1.8metre run should be ok. The gap between worktop and machines can be covered with a piece kitchen coving or similar. No need to retile.

hotcookie101

I don't mind about the gap (its a handy place to store instruction manuals/cooling racks etc)
Would I need to fix the timber to work top? Can it be at the back (still allowing handy storage?) or would i be better shifting upright 10-30mm to left (loads of space where the freezer and DW are-prob about 50mm.