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Any tips on painting walls and ceilings

joemardo1
Posts: 340 Forumite
I'm having a bit of a go at painting walls and ceilings in my home. Making a little bit of a mess as its my first time having a go at painting, but learning as I go along.
Any ideas on best way to get a nice straight line finish where the ceiling meets the walls. My eyesight isn't the best which probably makes it more difficult to get a good straight finish where wall meets ceiling. What size of a brush do you normally use to finish off here. I am using a plastic paint guard which helps a bit.
Another question before I go, the radiaters need a paint too, white, but the tins I see in budget are so small and cost a £5 each. As I will be doing eight altogether I require maybe 2 litres. Any suggestions,
thanks
Any ideas on best way to get a nice straight line finish where the ceiling meets the walls. My eyesight isn't the best which probably makes it more difficult to get a good straight finish where wall meets ceiling. What size of a brush do you normally use to finish off here. I am using a plastic paint guard which helps a bit.
Another question before I go, the radiaters need a paint too, white, but the tins I see in budget are so small and cost a £5 each. As I will be doing eight altogether I require maybe 2 litres. Any suggestions,
thanks
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Comments
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I get oh to do the cutting in as I cannot paint a straight line for the life of me. I always use a roller (with the sweeping brush handle for the ceiling) and always Dulux paint. I have tried own brand but it doesn't cover as well and it doesn't wipe clean like the Dulux. Its worth the extra money as you don't need to keep going over bits. Also homebase and BQ often have offers on. I use satinwood on radiators rather than radiator paint. Does the job it says on the tin suitable for metal. Rather than wash out brushes and rollers everytime you stop wrap tightly in plastic carrier bag and secure with elastic band. To cover furniture Wilkinson sell really cheap plastic stuff on a roll. Only about 99p and there is masses of it. Its about a £5 in the DIY shops.
~Laugh and the world laughs with you, weep and you weep alone.~:)
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I am rubbish at cutting in round the ceiling as well so when i was painting my kitchen in magnolia i painted the ceiling magnolia as well
obviously only works with light colours ie. white or creams but worth thinking about
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Generally speaking try to cut in at eye level, it is far easier, don't have too much paint on the brush. I usually use a 2.5 inch brush. Be aware of where the light falls on the wall or ceiling, eg. it is worse/more noticible if you accidently paint on the ceiling, rather than if you don't quite reach the ceiling, the same goes with where an alcove or wall is viewed from (if that makes any sense). Roller in a 'M' shape; Roll an 'M' then fill it in, so you can guarantee an even coverage, again don't have too much paint on the roller, and try to exhaust the paint before reapplying - It's surprising how much a roller can hold. Dulux is a very expensive paint, if you have a Leyland paint supplier near you http://www.leyland-paints.co.uk/site/default_majestic.asp they are usually cheaper than dulux and can mix most dulux colours, if you have the BS code from the colour sheet, or it is a well known colour (eg. Magnolia or Gardinia).
Good Luck
Re: Rads, Ordinary gloss paint should be fine, remember to give them a good key-in with a bit of sand paper, unless they are enamel, then you may wish to use specialist enamel paint.
Why does my signature say 'Raza' and why am I back to newbie status, with only 3 posts, any ideas??0 -
Never tried Leyland paint - is it good?. Tried B&Q, Homebase and Johnstone. With all these I had to give 2 or 3 coats of paint and the effect was patchy. Also couldn't give it a little rub to get rid of little handprints without some of the paint coming off on the cloth. This has never happened with Dulux (even matt). Dulux definitely covers better needing less coats so works out cheaper in the long run.
~Laugh and the world laughs with you, weep and you weep alone.~:)
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I specify paints ,all the time, and Dulux is the one, but its expensive and painters will try to get away with using Leyland or Johnsons. However, nothing wrong with Leyland or Johnsons and ,as Redseven says, given the BS number you can match any colour. Paint is like anything else in life; you get what you pay for. You buy a cheap emulsion and you end up giving it several coats to cover, whereas Dulux will cover much better.
Another trick, used by painters, ( not all of them) is to skip a coat; only give it it 2 when you've specified 3, which is why, in the past, I've specified different colours for primer, undercoat and gloss, so you can see its being done.0 -
if you have a Dulux trade centre near you , visit it and buy Dulux trade paint.
it IS dearer but it's coverage is also better.
I am just a regulat diy joe and have never done a bad job with Dulux trade, but i have been disappointed in the past with own label paints.
MTC0 -
Painting a sraight line? You could try covering the bits you dont want to paint with masking tape, which i think is quite cheap to buy.:cool: :cool: misters :cool: :cool:0
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use a small brush 12mm or 25mm with a steady hand or a paint pad"enough is a feast"...old Buddist proverb0
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best advice is take your time and use some masking tape....failing that maybe a stiff drink..it wont look so bad after..."enough is a feast"...old Buddist proverb0
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