MOT due - Any advice?

jennyfive

Hey folks, I'm no motor expert and I'm a little unsure what to do here. I hope my question isn't too dumb (or the answer too obvious).

My 12(ish) year old Ford Ka is due for MOT soon.

To keep it short, I suspect there's a number of things it might fail on (stuff that I'm aware of with my limited knowledge). Rust is probably going to be a problem again, and I think there's an electrical issue with the back window (the wipers work but the de-mister doesn't). There's a few other little things too.

My concern is that, being pretty skint as I am, that I may get the issues I'm aware of fixed... then take it for MOT only to discover that there's some even worse internal/hidden problem that'll cost too much for me to fix anyway - Meaning I'd have to scrap the car and lose that money I'd spent on the stuff I knew about in the first place.

Do you guys think it's a good idea just to send it for MOT now so they can find what it'll (probably) fail on, then I can judge whether it's worth getting it fixed and get another MOT after said repairs have taken place?

Do garages tend to do a re-test free of charge or does this vary from place to place?

Any help is really much appreciated, I love my wee blue motor (we call it the TARDIS) so I'd like to see it last another year.

hubert_cumberdale

quite often they will do free re tests take it in and get it test then see what it fails on you only normally get 7 days to take it back and only one retest.

the re demister wont matter

the rust wont matter unless is on a structural part or within 30cm's of he suspension mounting area. Im guessing the KA is rusty round the fuel cap (still amazed me that ford havnt sort this since the 80's)

esmerobbo

Take it to an independent and not Kwik fit or the like, who will find things to do, rather then things they need to do!

Strider590

^^ agree'd

And avoid anyone who sells cars too, they have an incentive to let you think the car is practically only good for scrap.
"yeah it's gonna cost £3000 to fix, but the good news is we have this car over here just in for only £2500!!"

tbourner

As above, small patches of rust won't matter and the rear demister is irrelevant.

Best bet is to make sure your lights all work, windows and mirrors aren't cracked, tyres look in good condition, then you can go deeper like turning full lock in a car park and making sure there are no scraping or knocking noises both ways, bounce the suspension down on each corner and make sure it bounces up once then returns to rest, if you want to get underneath to look for bad rust or broken steering gaitors (rubber concertina things on the front drive shafts), leaking suspension etc..

An MOT is a very basic road worthiness test, electrical things that don't work aren't a problem, just take it in for the test and ask the centre if it's free retest (usually has to be brought back within 7 days or leave it with them for repair).
Oh, and DON'T go to KwikFit!!!!

tbourner

There's a guide:
http://www.moneysavingexpert.com/travel/cheap-mot

Look for your local council MOT test centre if you have one.

hubert_cumberdale

check the number plate lights as well they are sneaky little devils

tow bars are also a part of the test now if you have one, they inspect them for crack. the silly thing is if you have a rubber cover on the towing ball the mot tester isnt allowed to remove the cover to check it.

Inactive

Check the " basics " like .. lights, tyres, seat belts, wipers / washers, horn etc. are all OK and then put it in for a test.

Jackinbox99

If i was you id just take it to the garage for an MOT and see what it fails on - then get those items fixed. Things like rear demmister or rear window wiper are not MOT points. Neither is rust unless its very bad and causing a danger - i.e. near structural points or chasis mounting points.

You may be supprised and it will pass first time. Ford KA`s are still very popular little cars, even 12 year old ones, and whilst they do tend to rust, they do sell very well to first time drivers or female drivers who wants a little run around. So unless your car is very bad, it wouldnt be at the "sell it for scrap" stage just yet!

jennyfive

Thanks for all this great advice guys, I'll do a pre-test/check as tbourner's link suggested, check all the essentials. I've also been having problems getting the boot hatch to open and the driver door to unlock - once unlocked (by going in passenger door and leaning over!) it opens and closes just fine, though. I've read WD-40 may help so I'll be trying that tonight.

Last year it did fail on a rust/structure issue but got it repaired and it passed on retest. Not sure if those kind of problems just recreate themselves though.

(I'll be avoiding kwikfit)

colino

Remember after the pre-MOT is done to keep objective about the car. A 12 year old Ka that needed welding last MOT is likely to be on the slippery slope and repair costs can fast accelerate past the cars worth!