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Central heating quote
PepJr
Posts: 7 Forumite
Hi all,
More work being done to my new house, this time central heating... has storage heaters at the moment.
I've had a BG quote; that was for £4,600. Which I know is likely to be the top of the scale cost wise. Also had one more quote from a work friends husband for £3,200. Sound fair?
This is for Removal of 2 storage heaters, and immersion heater.
Installation of a Worcester Greenstar 28i Junior, 6 Rads & all pipework.
More work being done to my new house, this time central heating... has storage heaters at the moment.
I've had a BG quote; that was for £4,600. Which I know is likely to be the top of the scale cost wise. Also had one more quote from a work friends husband for £3,200. Sound fair?
This is for Removal of 2 storage heaters, and immersion heater.
Installation of a Worcester Greenstar 28i Junior, 6 Rads & all pipework.
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Comments
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Have you asked the engineer for their corgi card?
The boiler has to be registered with corgi to make the guarantee complete.baldly going on...0 -
I had a new central heating system installed. I removed the old system once it had been disconnected. Hard work but saved alot of pounds.
I brought my boiler rads, TRVs and copper pipe from mr.centralheating.com, paid £980 all in.
Then found a local corgi guy to fit, he charged me around £1200.
This was for a large 3 bed semi, 8 rads and a towel rail, all pipework.0 -
we had a whole new system, with old water tank back boiler etc removed
new combi boiler, 6 rads, ladder towel rail, boiler in loft new flue etc £2700 think we got a great deal and all hats of to the chap was fantastic (even after 3yrs any probs he comes and has a look no charge) found him in our local newsletter
heres hoping you find someone just as good0 -
Hiya, we have a combi -boiler (GW 30cxi), 4 rads, one towel 'ladder' all the pipe work and a wireless thermo fitted in may. Total cost £2400. I didn't think that was bad, but I had never visited these threads then!! Not sure how it compares. Good luck with your heating PepJr.:j0
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We are looking to replace our old back boiler with a combi to go in the airing cupboard but so far can't even get anyone to turn up (well when we are in!)
Friday
Mr A due at 3.30pm...I got in at 2.45pm to find he had been!!!
Office said he would phone us Sat am to come out on Saturday.....We gave up at 12.30 and went out and got back 2.00pm to find he had been!!!
Monday
MR B due 10.00.....got up early despite being nightshift last night....phone call 10.30.....car broken down it'll now be 12.00-1.00pm.
Watch this space....
Any guide prices welcome
1.Combi boiler install in cupboard
2.removal of back boiler and fire
No radiators needed as all new:j I love bargains:jI love MSE0 -
UPDATE
MR B ...another phone call .....can't make it until well after 1pm now...Another day wasted
Why can't anyone turn up on time!!!:j I love bargains:jI love MSE0 -
dotchas wrote:UPDATE
MR B ...another phone call .....can't make it until well after 1pm now...Another day wasted
Why can't anyone turn up on time!!!
We had the same thing, but keep trying, you will get your good days. It's also another thing getting a follow up quote if they say they will go away and do one after you've pinned them down in the first place.0 -
Has anyone found that under the new regulations say if you're boiler flue where it is was fine before April 2005, but now isn't coz you have to have a replacement condenser boiler, and you need to have it moved coz it's not positioned within the new regulations, do you find that some Corgi installers tell you conflicting info against the new regulations? (Trying to make sense here). I've been quoted a few times by different Corgi registered installers, but cannot really compare the quotes as they have not been broken down specifically enough for the work being done, and the other prob is that the work they say needs doing differs. Some say my gas pipe needs changing from the meter, others say no, and advise a certain make of boiler, then another will say you can have our existing pipe connected to any make of boiler. When it comes to the quotes I do ask for a bit more info on what model of programmer I will be getting, how much it costs say if they think I should move the boiler to another wall, a closet, or the loft, how much it is for labour etc, but they don't like to say. Another thing is having a Powerflush puts the installation price right up, they say if you don't have one, your new boiler won't be working optimally, and other plumbers don't like to flush, but use another way of cleaning the system, say it's less intensive. I'd like to know what I'm getting for my money, and why not all Corgi guys abide by the new regulations. It's worrying really. Has anyone else had this kind of experience?0
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I'm not CORGI registered but I'll give a reply to your post until one of the CORGI guys spots it:
From what I know:
Condensing boilers are now the norm due to energy saving related changes to Building Regulations. There are exceptions but they are so rare you might as well say that for all normal domestic installations you will get a condensing boiler.
To install it properly, it has to be installed to the manufacturer's recommendations (or some Building Regs defaults, but I can't imagine a manufacturer not supplying instructions). So, compared to your old boiler, it now has to cope with a condensate drain and the manufacturer's instructions about that drain. Again, for example, let's say one boiler flue is allowed to be within 300mm of an opening window, but another manufacturer says the minimum distance for its boiler is 450mm, then that may preclude the use of that boiler in your situation.
Size of gas pipe: a lot of older installations worked (or got away with working) on 15mm pipe. A lot of moderner boilers only work properly on a 22mm gas pipe. So again, one boiler from one manufacturer may be OK with your existing pipework, another will require the pipework upgrading.
Powerflush: Same answer, it depends what the manufacturer's instructions say. If they say the existing has to be flushed and an inhibitor added, then that has to be done. If they say it has to be powerflushed and an inhibitor added, then that's what has to be done. (a powerflush would cost about £250 - that's a very rough figure)
If you don't follow the manufacturer's instructions, the installer shouldn't be filling in the certificate and the manufacturer's guarantee will be invalid. I recall various stories on other trade forums where a boiler had developed a fault shortly after installation and the manufacturer's engineer was sent to look at it. If the installation certificate was absent or not completed the engineer's time was charged for as there was no guarantee.
I don't see why anyone giving you a quote shouldn't detail what the programmer etc. they propose to use is. Equally, I don't see that anyone is not abiding "by the new regulations", they are just giving alternative solutions.
Now all I need is a CORGI plumber to confirm what I've said :wave:A house isn't a home without a cat.
Those are my principles. If you don't like them, I have others.
I have writer's block - I can't begin to tell you about it.
You told me again you preferred handsome men but for me you would make an exception.
It's a recession when your neighbour loses his job; it's a depression when you lose yours.0 -
Good morning: Bobproperty has provided some relevant info. Your installer needs to calculate the size of gas pipe taking into account the amount of gas the appliance needs, the distance from appliance to meter and any other appliances on that supply and THEN how many bends and tees on that pipe (simple yeah!?) The Energy Saving Trust produces a range of useful documents: the link provided below will expand on many of the points made in this thread and help homeowners understand the process. Beanieandme: take a look at page 29 in the document.
Enjoy!
http://www.est.org.uk/uploads/documents/housingbuildings/ce30.pdfAsk to see CIPHE (Chartered Institute of Plumbing & Heating Engineering)0
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