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Leaking radiator
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Ahh - thats different then. Where is it on this pic?
or more specifically which part of the assembly in relation to this one:
Cheers
I would say that the leak is coming from the end of the "tail". I will get a torch out tomorrow and investigate further. The radiator is turned off so there is no more leakage.0 -
OK but which end of the tail? The end nearest the valve itself is easy. Tighten up the large "nut" a little. Hold the valve itself steady when you do it though as its easy to twist it off the 15mm pipe! If its the other end thats a different issue.
CheersThe difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein0 -
Try using some white toilet paper, the cheap stuff is sufficient. Blot it into the joints and after each time look for a mark on the paper.
Turn on the radiator to do it.
You need to work out whether it is coming from the tail into the radiator or from around one of the two union nuts. Note that newer valves are not like the one in the picture, they use compression fittings with olives.
If it's the tail into the radiator you would need to drain the system and have a tail removing spanner which is like a large allen key of 1/2 inch which are about £3. Some ptfe tape would also be needed and system inhibitor (6 to £18 depending upon brand) after you refill it and a way to add that to the system such as an easyfill device(£11).
http://www.tooldiscountcentre.com/monument-2053u-radiator-spanner-key-valve-vent-plug-44-p.asp - I have an unbranded one which cost me slightly less from a DIY chain
http://www.tooldiscountcentre.com/eezyfill-radiator-dosing-funnel-fitting-central-heating-176-p.asp - there are different methods of doing it, this allows cheaper cartons of inhibitor to be added to radiators which have removable vent plugs
tooldiscount centre is local to me and they have an eBay store too.
If it's the union nuts then it's a lot easier and just requires tightening slightly while steadying the valve to prevent any rotation of the valve.0 -
Its at the locksheild valve end (would be), I will try to post some pics tomorrow.0
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worried_jim wrote: »Its at the locksheild valve end (would be), I will try to post some pics tomorrow.
CheersThe difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein0 -
I've pointed with a screwdriver where the water is coming from.0
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That's the spot. I am just measuring up now for a new one then a trip to b&q. You can see in my original pic in the bottom right of the pic the connection to the pipe below the valve (its the same both sides) I hope to just screw the new one on in using the same fittings.0
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My Current rad is 520mm height 900mm width. Its a double panel and on the b&q website I can see one that is 600 x 900 (Kudox Double Radiator 5494 BTU 600x900mm Only £66.99)
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=10677531&fh_view_size=12&fh_start_index=0&fh_eds=%3f&fh_location=%2f%2fcatal!!!1%2fen_GB%2fcategories%3C{9372015}%2fcategories%3C{9372045}%2fcategories%3C{9372198}%2fspecificationsProductType%3dsteel_panel_radiators%2fspecificationsSpecificProductType%3ddouble_steel_panel_radiators&fh_refview=lister&ts=1291811118879&isSearch=false
Would this be a suitable replacement and just 8 cm higher up the wall ( not 8cm nearer the floor)? Somebody has told me to get some tape but I can't remember what it was called, something like ptp?
I really appreciate everyone's advice.0 -
its called ptfe tape. wrap some around the male threads and it seals the joint.
a couple of layers.
ps.
wrap it around clockwise.Get some gorm.0
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