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I thought replacing an old boiler would save me money not cost more
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I had a very ancient Vulcan continental that packed up. Well, we had it replaced for what was going to be a standard condenser but the plumber found that our heating system was plumbed into the hot water cylinder tank which imploded when they drained it. Change of plan and much more work they kindly fitted us a heatline combi for no extra charge. Brilliant I though until I rang Southern Electric with a reading after a month usage. We are now using more gas (supplier the same and not put prices up yet) even though I have been using it as little as possible (like the old one) Works out about £10 a week. We have a coal fire so I keep turning it off and letting it rest until I feel it getting cold and then on again at the mid (e) setting. They haven't fitted the thermostat yet so thats why I keep turning it off after a while. I have signed up with EDF so hopefully the cost will go down as SE put theirs up on Dec 1st.
It may just be me because I am not used to a different kind of boiler and need to know how to get the best out of it as well as running it at the most economically efficient. Is it better to have it running all night at a low setting constant or is turning it off every so often a better way ? I have no idea but I would have thought I would notice a drop in my gas usage (everyone else who has one says they did). I know it's exceptionally cold at the moment but I am still using it sensibly. The only thing I can think of that may be using more is having hot water on tap. When we had the old boiler and ran just the central heating we got hot water in the tank by default. Now we heat the water separately which could use more. Boiling the kettle for washing up again may be better than running it off the boiler. Oh I don't know.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated from a seasoned combi user. I looked up out heatline 24 and it has a very good energy efficiency rating.
It may just be me because I am not used to a different kind of boiler and need to know how to get the best out of it as well as running it at the most economically efficient. Is it better to have it running all night at a low setting constant or is turning it off every so often a better way ? I have no idea but I would have thought I would notice a drop in my gas usage (everyone else who has one says they did). I know it's exceptionally cold at the moment but I am still using it sensibly. The only thing I can think of that may be using more is having hot water on tap. When we had the old boiler and ran just the central heating we got hot water in the tank by default. Now we heat the water separately which could use more. Boiling the kettle for washing up again may be better than running it off the boiler. Oh I don't know.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated from a seasoned combi user. I looked up out heatline 24 and it has a very good energy efficiency rating.
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You have a boiler with no room thermostat? Do your radiators have TRVs?
I'd recommend having a programmable thermostat in your main room for maximum flexibility a wireless model would be best.
The weather has been getting colder of late.That gum you like is coming back in style.0 -
Why has the installer left the job half finished? Why don't you get them back straight away to fit the room 'stat straight away?-you imply that the new boiler has been in for over a month now! Have you received the commissioning paperwork and what control mechanisms does that specify? TRV's, programmer? What is currently controlling the temp if there is no room stat?
And if you leave your heating on all night (even on low) you certainly will get higher gas bills.
Edit: don't Building Regs require the fitting of a room 'stat on new boiler installs anyway?No free lunch, and no free laptop0 -
Can't get them to come back. Just ignore my messages. It's a bit of a tough one as we paid cash so we now have no comeback. Corgi registered and everything and again didn't charge us extra. Perhaps because we cost them more money having more out of them he is reluctant to come back. Paid in full but got no proof of documents. Just the boiler manual and 2 year guarantee to send off.0
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http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/thermostats.htm
Building regulations now state that dwellings with total usable floor areas greater than 150m should have more than one heating circuit with separate time and temperature control. A programmable thermostat is the perfect solution.0 -
Can't get them to come back. Just ignore my messages. It's a bit of a tough one as we paid cash so we now have no comeback. Corgi registered and everything and again didn't charge us extra. Perhaps because we cost them more money having more out of them he is reluctant to come back. Paid in full but got no proof of documents. Just the boiler manual and 2 year guarantee to send off.
Why oh why did you pay 100% before the job was done and the certification was completed? CORGI has been obsolete for 18 months now-installers have to be GSR-Gas Safe Registered-is yours? You can check online. Also check if your boiler has been certified as required by the regs.
What do you mean 'we paid cash so we have no comeback'?. If the quotation specified a room stat (as it must do) then they must fit one.
If the boiler has not been fitted by an RGI in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions then I'm afraid that your 2 year warranty will be worthless, because the maker will not pay out.No free lunch, and no free laptop0 -
Start with a letter sent recorded delivery giving them 14 days to complete the install to spec and provide the certification, or you will employ another RGI to complete the work and will expect them to pay the cost. Otherwise you will initiate a Small Claims process.
However when you said that they were paid in cash, I now have a horrible feeling that a) they don't have an address, just a mobile no, b( they're not GSR-RGI's, and c) you didn't get a written quote or a receipt?
I do hope I'm wrong.No free lunch, and no free laptop0 -
Have you spoken to your local council Trading Standards or Enviornmental Health?????Today, my BEST is good enough.0
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How many times have we seen this same scenario on MSE?:eek:
For those thinking of replacing their CH systems/boilers see the advice here.
CanuckleheadAsk to see CIPHE (Chartered Institute of Plumbing & Heating Engineering)0 -
Reading the OP again, it appears that the installer destroyed the hot water tank (imploded it), and then very kindly offered to fit a combi 'at no extra charge' (presumably to avoid the extra cost of replacing the tank). Even though the OP presumably wanted a conventional boiler?
I just looked on the Heatline site, and all their combi's are rated SEDBUK 'B': I thought all new installs now had to be rated SEDBUK 'A'? Is this what is euphemistically referred to as a 'budget' boiler range?
OP,did they at least fit a programmer (which is also a requirement of the Building Regs)?No free lunch, and no free laptop0
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