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Outside garage power?
House_Hunter
Posts: 165 Forumite
Ok so staring to think about running power to the garage (I know you need to be certified to run electrics outside).
My question was, on an outside circuit, can you have a mixture of lights and sockets?
As was thinking of a few outdoor lights as well as powering the garage door and a few useful garden sockets.....
My question was, on an outside circuit, can you have a mixture of lights and sockets?
As was thinking of a few outdoor lights as well as powering the garage door and a few useful garden sockets.....
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You can have lights out there on a single run - our garage has power and then a fused spur to run the single light off it - installed 4 years ago so should be to current regs. Whether if you start getting into multiples of lights and sockets it would be advisable to have a second circuit for the lights, I'm not sure - wouldn't have thought so as lights are typically low power.Adventure before Dementia!0
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I was thinking of a run of lights down the garden leading to the garage...
I agree...they are low power, but not sure if they are 'supposed' to be on a separate circit or not. I doubt it'll be a loading issue, as a ring main within the house could have 10-15 sockets on it easy...0 -
nothing to stop you running table/desk lamps off the sockets though.Get some gorm.0
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I'm thinking along the lines of a number of outside lights.... e.g. along the path/hedge.
Its just that armoured cable is expesnive enough that if I can do it with 1 circuit with junctions for the lights along the route to the garage and then supply the garage door and a couple sockets, as opposed to 2 runs (1 for lights and 1 for garage door and sockets) it would be much cheaper....0 -
You're not, I think, supposed to have BC or ES lampholders on a circuit fused at more than 10A. As you'd want more than that for sockets you'd need to fuse down for the lights.A kind word lasts a minute, a skelped erse is sair for a day.0
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:rotfl:Sorry for the smiley but it reads like you need to be barking to do it!!House_Hunter wrote: »I know you need to be certified to run electrics outside.
Actually the installer needs to be able to certify that the installation is in accordance with Part P of the building regs. In order to be able to self certify he will have to have proved he's competant. The alternative is to get building control in (at a cost of iro £ 200) to give you the Part P documentation but they will not give you any Edn 17 Certificates.
CheersThe difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein0 -
Hi-Tuf is an alternative to SWA. Whichever you use it should either be securely clipped to a secure fence or wall above the ground. SWA can also be buried but Hi-Tuf cannot.House_Hunter wrote: »Its just that armoured cable is expesnive enough
You'll never get SWA to fit the fittings. Hi-Tuf would be better. Have you thought about ELV for the outside lighting?that if I can do it with 1 circuit with junctions for the lights along the route to the garage
CheersThe difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein0 -
Actually the installer needs to be able to certify that the installation is in accordance with Part P of the building regs. In order to be able to self certify he will have to have proved he's competant.
No, his employer must have signed up to one of the Part Pee schemes. There's no requirement that the work actually be done by anyone competent. It's not like gas, where the operative has to be qualified.A kind word lasts a minute, a skelped erse is sair for a day.0 -
Your assuming he's not self-employed than?Owain_Moneysaver wrote: »No, his employer must have signed up to one of the Part Pee schemes.
Yes there is - the business (whether a company or self employed) must be competant to be able to self certify. CLICKYThere's no requirement that the work actually be done by anyone competent.
CheersThe difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein0 -
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