How did YOU train good lead-walking?

EmptyPockets

I'm interested to know how the members on here trained their dogs to walk on a lead without pulling and tugging...

Were you the one to lead-train your dog?

How successful was it?

What method/s did you use?

I've been trying to lead-train a mad Border Collie, and an even madder Patterdale Terrier. I've been using the click-and-treat method for a loose lead, and backing up a few steps when the dog pulls... but so far... we don't seem to be getting anywhere

I've been doing the training in the house and in the garden. They are pretty calm then so it doesn't go too badly, but the moment we head for the front door, my mad dogs return and it's like I don't exist again. The Patterdale will just pull pull pull forwards, the Collie pulls forward, backwards, tries to circle me and ties me in knots - it's annoying and very embarrassing! I've watched the videos from Kikopup and have been trying to follow the advice, but it doesn't seem to be working for us. I can't be doing it right? :mad:

I've just come inside after another training session in the garden with them (I work with them seperately), but it feels like we are getting nowhere

How did YOU train your dog/s to walk properly on lead..?

sarabe

I train my dogs to walk with me without a lead on first.

I don't do road walks until they are 8 or 9 months old which gives us enough time to learn to walk on a lead in any given situation.

It's not how you teach it that is the problem, it's letting them practice the pulling or trying to teach it when they cannot possibly learn anything because of the excitement.

Take your dogs to the park in the car or walk them on a harness to wherever you are going and just walk fast!!

Do your training with the lead attached to the collar only when they can succeed.

Lead on collar = pulling never works. Lead on harness = we're going for a walk. Dog will learn the difference if you are consistent.

Gradually do more on the collar and less on the harness.

Lirin

Choke lead to stop them pulling and biscuits for rewards.
With the choke, I wouldn't let them pull full swing- they'll get told NO when they pull a bit, followed by 'Walk at heel!' Bamboo stick- a quick tap on their hindquarters- doesn't hurt them, mainly left them indignant. Would use it once on them, the swishing sound usually would hlp after that.
Deliberately would let them off and call them back for a treat- they'll walk beside me now without a lead happily enough, and I would have a variety of commands- a whistle or click of my fingers will bring them back to me, and holding up my hand will stop them.
Wouldn't really walk them on a lead all that often- mainly in built-up areas, as the Collie's still inclined to head off at times.

cyberbob

Remember don't tell them to heel when they are pulling as then they associate the word with pulling.

cyberbob

Lirin wrote: »

Choke lead to stop them pulling and biscuits for rewards.
With the choke, I wouldn't let them pull full swing- they'll get told NO when they pull a bit, followed by 'Walk at heel!' Bamboo stick- a quick tap on their hindquarters- doesn't hurt them, mainly left them indignant. Would use it once on them, the swishing sound usually would hlp after that.

Are you serious? This sounds like a throwback to 70s training methods. Your better off getting a dog to do something for you because they want to not because they are afraid of the consequences. Positive training methods are far better way to go.

Ep I have always found distractions work well. As they sound like they are doing ok with the principle but are getting distracted when they leave home. A toy or treats just in front of them. Walk briskly as Sarabe suggested and try and walk tall with the attitude you are in charge. Also I stop as you do and call them back to me then keep walking and stop and do it again. It can take a while but that is worth persevering with.

EmptyPockets

cyberbob wrote: »

Are you serious? This sounds like a throwback to 70s training methods. Your better off getting a dog to do something for you because they want to not because they are afraid of the consequences. Positive training methods are far better way to go.

Ep I have always found distractions work well. As they sound like they are doing ok with the principle but are getting distracted when they leave home. A toy or treats just in front of them. Walk briskly as Sarabe suggested and try and walk tall with the attitude you are in charge. Also I stop as you do and call them back to me then keep walking and stop and do it again. It can take a while but that is worth persevering with.

Thanks. I had really hoped that we'd be having some good results by now so today especially has been very frustrating, and I ended the training session very early because I knew I was displaying my frustration, which is no good for the dogs. Would you say it is better to put it into practice in the street, on an actual walk, rather than continuing in the garden for what seems like forever?!

jaqui59

Walk slowly, and stop a lot, and in time they should give up pulling... This has never failed for me.

Lirin

Yep I am cyberbob- I was raised training gundogs, and those are the methods used.
My dogs now, although pets, are trained the same way. Gundog have to respond when they're asked, or they do risk injury- that's why the methods are often harsher sounding. I grew up around working dogs.
I would never use clickers, air puffs, or harnesses on a dog, as they need to respond to me, not what I'm holding.
Our area is full of both gundogs and sheepdogs, which are often trained this way.
The reward I have now are two dogs I can completely trust (even if they're begging merchants in regards to treats!) and two dogs that respond instantly- and are rewarded for it.
The toy or treat for walking does work well- some dogs can be a bit scatty!
I appreciate others may not like my method of training, but the dogs are not mistreated, and are loving, caring animals. Once they learn to respond to your voice, the majority of training is done.

Englishrose

Ok, here's how I trained all mine (and my friends Jack Russel that came to stay for a week and had never been lead trained at all - took me 30 mins to sort her out):
Put lead on collar/halti/whatever you like and begin the walk.
AS SOON as dog pulls (and this is probably before you leave the garden) just stop, don't look at the dog until it stops jumping/pulling etc and stops to look at you, then say heel or whatever word you choose, put dog in heel position, let the lead loose and begin walking again. You'll get maybe 2 steps before lead tightens and pulling starts again, just stop and wait again until dog is ready to listen and then repeat.
Be aware you will look like a complete idiot and get nowhere on the first walk, but dogs learn very fast and you will get more and more steps between pulls until you can walk anywhere and the dog will stay at your side with the lead loose. I also use the word no as soon as they tighten the lead and begin to pull, so they hear the word and know I will stop until they are at heel and calm again.

I'm sure others here will have other sucessful methods but this has worked for me with all my dogs over the years. It does require patience and authority but they do learn very very quickly that pulling gets them nothing and nowhere.

sarabe

I used to use choke chains to train my dogs in the 70’s and they were very effective of that there is no doubt.

I trained some fabulous heelwork by using the check and release method. The problem was, well certainly in competition circles anyway, the transition from on lead heel work to off lead heel. Once you can’t check the dog anymore they have no motivation to walk to heel.

I also started competing in agility and needed control and precision without the benefit of a lead which led me to find a better way to communicate with my dog what I wanted.

I also suspect that my German Shepherd’s hind leg ataxia was caused by my use of the choke chain

cinderellacomplex

I use the same kind of style as kikopup mentions in her videos. When we are walking if the dog pulls I will walk backwards until they follow me of their own accord, when they get back so that their shoulders are in line with my left leg I step forwards on that leg and begin going forwards again. Likewise, if I step away they are rewarded for catching up and returning to that leg. Basically I am trying to show the dog that this is the most rewarding place to be, a much more solid concept for them than just 'not pulling' - if they stick to that leg then they won't pull anyway.

I think that you have to approach each situation as a new learning experience, they have got the concept in the garden but now you have to generalize it to more high energy situations. If you are having trouble with the door then use that as an exercise, just walk towards the door and if they pull walk backwards until they are following you again etc. Then do the same exercise but with the open door and walking through it. Walking them in the street would be good as well but be sure to do it when they are having a good day and you are relaxed. And don't expect to get far at first!

Sarabe mentioned using a harness or something to walk them places when you aren't training. That means that you aren't confusing the dog by allowing them to pull sometimes but not other times with the lead on their collar. Ideally you would just be able to drive them to places where they could run off-lead when you aren't training them but that isn't very practical.

One of the things you will have to be careful about is them getting into the habit of pulling when they are together even if they walk nicely apart. At a later stage you should try walking them in each other's presence. Maybe not walking together at first.. you could have one sitting at the side (with another person or tied up) or have another person walking the other dog nearby but not too close. Like everything else that will probably take time but you can't really rush it or you may find yourself taking a few steps back.

You could try doing off-lead heelwork as well. Teach it like a trick and walk around in circles and triangles and whatever else you like and your dog will soon think of it as a game. Its all part of showing them that your side is a fun place to be