Old crazed Paint in Kitchen and Bathroom

slam3000

In the Victorian flat that I've recently moved into,the seemingly rather old paint on the walls in both the kitchen and bathroom is finely crazed all over. The paint is actually well adhered and not flaking off at all, but I now want to now redecorate and, obviously, don't want my new paint to craze as well.

So what would be the best route to go down to ensure this problem doesn't recur? Also, ideally, I'd like to my finishing coat to be some form of matt (white), as I'm not keen on the shiney look, although I know it's always reccomended for kitchens and bathrooms.

Any suggestions/solutions/thoughts/comments?

slam3000

Just giving this a bump.

ormus

if its oil paint, then it needs to be removed first.
older houses used oil paint a lot in areas like bathrooms etc...

avantra

Like ormus said, and also check you protect yourself if it is lead paint you about to remove.

slam3000

I went into Leyland's today and enqired about it there and they suggested that I sand the walls to get a key, rather than to remove the paint, and the apply an acrylic primer which, he said, would prevent the top coats from reacting with the old paints, which is what he thinks has happened to cause the crazing.

Does this sound like it would work?

aliasojo

I swear by Zinsser products. Very expensive but gets it right first time.

http://zinsseruk.com/shop/Product.aspx?cId=130&pgId=355

'Since 1982, professionals and do-it-yourselfers have relied on Bulls Eye 1-2-3® Primer-Sealer to quickly and effectively prime and seal a wide variety of interior and exterior surfaces – new drywall, wood, masonry, metal, glossy surfaces – and more. Offering great adhesion without sanding, Bulls Eye 1-2-3® is a "bond coat" primer that's great for hard-to-stick surfaces like old glossy paints and clear finishes, metal, fiberglass, PVC, composites –even glass & tile.'

slam3000

aliasojo wrote: »

I swear by Zinsser products. Very expensive but gets it right first time.

http://zinsseruk.com/shop/Product.aspx?cId=130&pgId=355

'Since 1982, professionals and do-it-yourselfers have relied on Bulls Eye 1-2-3® Primer-Sealer to quickly and effectively prime and seal a wide variety of interior and exterior surfaces – new drywall, wood, masonry, metal, glossy surfaces – and more. Offering great adhesion without sanding, Bulls Eye 1-2-3® is a "bond coat" primer that's great for hard-to-stick surfaces like old glossy paints and clear finishes, metal, fiberglass, PVC, composites –even glass & tile.'

I've actually used some Zinsser BIN when I needed a stain blocker for the bedroom walls. You're right, it is pricey, but it definitely worked on the job I needed it for. BIN is shellac based, whereas I think Bullseye is waterbased, and I'm not sure which would be better, or if I should stick to the suggestion of an acrylic primer.

ruftiger

Zinsser is the professionals choice, the best by far.

aliasojo

slam3000 wrote: »

I've actually used some Zinsser BIN when I needed a stain blocker for the bedroom walls. You're right, it is pricey, but it definitely worked on the job I needed it for. BIN is shellac based, whereas I think Bullseye is waterbased, and I'm not sure which would be better, or if I should stick to the suggestion of an acrylic primer.

It is an acrylic.

Generic Type – 100% acrylic resin water-based

interior/exterior stain blocking primer sealer

http://zinsseruk.com/_assets/library/1221.pdf

slam3000

aliasojo wrote: »

It is an acrylic.

Generic Type

– 100% acrylic resin water-based

interior/exterior stain blocking primer sealer

http://zinsseruk.com/_assets/library/1221.pdf

Ah, ok. I'll probably go for that one then.

keystone

Oil based undercoat will do as well but for preference I'd go for Zinnser too. BTW crazing always occurs if someone slaps matt over silk without preppoing it first so it won't necessarily be ancient paint underneath.

Cheers