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Used Car Nearly Killed Me! Any Advice Please..

135

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  • Stigy
    Stigy Posts: 1,581 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    gmbunn wrote: »
    Yes I do have them now, i havent measured them though I will now. The front are worn at a slope and although I dont know much about cars, I think I can see metal just showing through on one.
    If you can see metal through one and it's where pad should be, it's definitely not good. If they're wearing unevenly, it suggests also that you have a partially seized brake caliper, which should have been picked up by the garage that fitted the new parts if that is the case. I read here somewhere that the car will stop sufficiently if the pads are on the metal? Correct me somebody if I didn't read that just now, and I sure hope I didn't. How on earth can metal on metal be just as good as PAD on metal? :rotfl:
  • anewman
    anewman Posts: 9,200 Forumite
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    You need a special micrometer to measure them properly. If you have a standard micrometer you can bodge one by selotaping 2 nails to the prongs securely and if electronic zero it with the nails touching. The edge of the disc will have a raised lip, particularly if well worn.
  • anewman
    anewman Posts: 9,200 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Stigy wrote: »
    How on earth can metal on metal be just as good as PAD on metal? :rotfl:
    It won't be but it would probably pass the MOT fine so long as the MOT tester could not see the pad thickness (they don't remove wheels etc as part of the test).
  • Stigy
    Stigy Posts: 1,581 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    anewman wrote: »
    You need a special micrometer to measure them properly. If you have a standard micrometer you can bodge one by selotaping 2 nails to the prongs securely and if electronic zero it with the nails touching. The edge of the disc will have a raised lip, particularly if well worn.
    You've lost me there, lol. Why would you need to bodge the micrometre? For the MoT it wouldn't come in to the equation, and for any other reason it would be worth any garage's while to sell a set of discs & pads! :rotfl:
  • Stigy
    Stigy Posts: 1,581 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    anewman wrote: »
    It won't be but it would probably pass the MOT fine so long as the MOT tester could not see the pad thickness (they don't remove wheels etc as part of the test).
    I know they don't remove anything for the test, but the grinding, along with, I'd imagine, braking inefficiency, would surely fail the test? Ignore then grinding then, but the braking itself would be effected.
  • anewman
    anewman Posts: 9,200 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Stigy wrote: »
    I know they don't remove anything for the test, but the grinding, along with, I'd imagine, braking inefficiency, would surely fail the test? Ignore then grinding then, but the braking itself would be effected.
    The braking efficiency requirements for the MOT is rather poor. I wouldn't want to send any kids out in a car that only just meets the minimum requirements of the MOT. Brake imbalance would fail it, but then again, the MOT standards allow for an imbalance that I would consider to be dangerous. Thankfully most MOT testers will use the advisory notices to address these issues.
  • Stigy
    Stigy Posts: 1,581 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    anewman wrote: »
    The braking efficiency requirements for the MOT is rather poor. I wouldn't want to send any kids out in a car that only just meets the minimum requirements of the MOT. Brake imbalance would fail it, but then again, the MOT standards allow for an imbalance that I would consider to be dangerous. Thankfully most MOT testers will use the advisory notices to address these issues.
    I'd like to think, that although a car probably wouldn't fail on the grinding alone, the tester would have enough savvy to either point out to the customer personally that he believes the brakes are dangerously low, or there's certain circumstances whereby a failure can be issued even if the efficiency is borderline 'okay' if such grinding occurs. Just seems a bit of comon sense should be exercised in that any brake grinding shouldn't be there!
  • Velcro_Hotdog
    Velcro_Hotdog Posts: 1,018 Forumite
    gmbunn wrote: »
    Hi folks,

    Im looking for some advice about a very serious issue Ive had with a used car. Here's the background..

    3 weeks ago I purchased a 06 plate Mondeo from a car dealership (i think its a family business). The advertisement I initially saw for the garage stated "A1 condition, drives superb. All our cars are sold HPI clear, prepared to a high standard and are faultless". I went and saw the vehicle and purchased it. Up until last week I had only ever driven the vehicle with me in it. Last week I took my family (4 in total) for a drive and as I approached a junction the brakes failed to stop me effectively and the nose of the vehicle ended up in the junction. Luckily the oncoming driver was aware and took evasive action.

    I took the vehicle to a garage the following day to have it inspected and I was told ALL brake discs and pads, all the way around the vehicle, were substantially worn to the point they suggested it would have failed and MOT and should not have been driven on until its repaired.

    Considering I purchased the vehicle in the midlands and live in Devon and also noting what the mechanics said about safety, I had the work done there and then and kept all paperwork showing the inspection result. It cost £363.

    I am absolutely horrified this has happened as it could have been a serious accident. To add insult, as my car crossed into the junction, even by a few feet, I activated a red light camera and now have recieved a penalty ticket from the police!

    Can anybody please tell me where I stand on claiming my money back from the dealership? Maybe under the Sale of Goods Act?

    Thank you for any help :(

    :rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:

    I know the outcome could have been much much worse but that really did make me laugh out loud. Life really can be a !!!!! can't it? Hope you get somewhere with the garage that sold the car.
  • harveybobbles
    harveybobbles Posts: 8,973 Forumite
    gmbunn wrote: »
    Please dont misunderstand me, I'm not saying the brakes failed completely

    But you said earlier
    as I approached a junction the brakes failed

    As for the selling garage being 250 miles away - that is down to YOU chosing to buy the car from them. They didnt force you to buy from them, so these things need to be taken into account when it comes to problems and returning the car etc.

    The SOGA wont get you very far as you have to give the selling dealer sufficient time to rectify the problem.

    the other thing to note is that if you went into a garage inviting someone to find faults with your breakes, then of course they are going to say that ALL discs/pads are shot. It's called scare tacticks.

    The bit about the red light camera is funny though!
    But if you was approaching a set if lights then you should be easing off slightly and anticipating the lights changing to red...So I can't see you winning that one either.
  • Hammyman
    Hammyman Posts: 9,913 Forumite
    Stigy wrote: »
    I know they don't remove anything for the test, but the grinding, along with, I'd imagine, braking inefficiency, would surely fail the test? Ignore then grinding then, but the braking itself would be effected.

    3 weeks ago, there wouldn't necessarily be grinding. There wouldn't be braking inefficiency.

    Also it depends where the OP drives and their style of driving. I can drive 30 miles to a place I used to work at and use my brakes the total of 8 times. Compare that to driving in town.
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