Moving gas combi boiler into loft/attic

Having a bit of a rethink on routing our boiler flue through a proposed conservatory, now wondering about moving boiler into loft. Currently we have a British Gas branded RD 532 combi boiler (new in 2003 ish), which is currently sitting downstairs in our kitchen, on the back wall of our house. Its a small mid terrace house, so we don't have a lot of options on placement.

The loft seems a good plan, as it frees up loads of space for us (can reclaim one corner of our small kitchen), side steps the whole conservatory flue problem. We already have a cold water pipe going up to loft; previously there was a cold water tank, but that was ditched when boiler was fitted, with the up/down pipes simply connected to form a loop up to loft.

The first gas chap I've spoken to, advised against us, due to fire regs and cost. I'll speak to him more, but what do I need to be aware of?

I've read on here, that a permanent loft ladder, flooring and lighting is required. This is fine, I've already put floorboards down for a small area of loft, more would be no hassle.

So ultimately, what would be involved and what regs may cause us hassle/cost? Any ideas on rough cost/time for work?

Comments

  • wallbash
    wallbash Posts: 17,775 Forumite
    I did it with a standard boiler years ago , great space saving. I think you have got it covered apart from
    a Frost stat and ....... guard rail round loft hatch!!!!! Stupid regs.
  • Arfa__
    Arfa__ Posts: 584 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    What's the 'frost stat'?
  • ic
    ic Posts: 3,398 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    I had my boiler in the bathroom replaced with one up in the loft a month ago. The pipework extension was approx 15m, work was completed in a day. Cost £1960 for a Worcester CDi30 with 5 year warranty. I do have the loft boarded out with a fixed ladder and light. I don't have any handrails around the hatch.

    A frost stat basically kicks the system into action when there is no heat demand, but the system is at risk of freezing. Modern boilers always tend to have these built in for the unit itself, and if you have distant pipework running through somewhere cold, you install a frost stat by that bit of pipework to protect it (your boiler might be warm, but the pipework not). Make sure your pipework is lagged throughout the loft and you shouldn't have a problem.
  • Ben84
    Ben84 Posts: 3,069 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Depends on your house, but it's generally not the most accessible place to get to for servicing, or for you to adjust controls. Wall hung boilers also emit a fair bit of heat in to the room they're installed in, I had one once that pretty much heated the kitchen. Maybe you can get an insulated boiler that loses little heat to the room, designed for installing in locations that don't need heating?
  • The previous replies have pretty much nailed everything, but if you fit a frost stat make sure you also fit a pipe stat as otherwise the boiler will heat up your house to the temp that is set on the roomstat (i.e radiators coming on in the night when the temp in the loft drops below 5 degrees).
  • Arfa__
    Arfa__ Posts: 584 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    edited 18 September 2010 at 8:54PM
    All quite positive on feasibility then, just a couple of prerequisites to sort out.
    ic: your bill of £2k, I take it that includes cost of new boiler too?
    As to the boiler heating our kitchen, never noticed this, its always cool to touch. Presume its already pretty sealed up.

    Right then, time to ring round all the local gas people for quotes... :)
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