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only one radiator working?
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this sounds like a good idea but i have questions!
When you say "turn on ch" what does 'ch' mean?
How do I turn the HW off?
How do I know the rads are off for sure?
Should I leave the one thats working as the one left on or choose another?Optia is Plumb Center own brand. I've fitted a couple for customers who have had their boiler go tits up in the middle of their house sale.
Could be the fitter didn't set the 3 port valve to manual when he filled the system up.
Turn off HW, turn off boiler, turn on ch, turn off all rads except one. Close any bypass valve and set pump to max speed. Hopefully this should push the air lock into the only rad left on.
You hopefully will hear a satisfying gurgling.
If this works, do it with all other rads, then HW circuit.
If you succeed, remember to set any bypass valve etc back to how you found it.0 -
Oh! Its likely that he won't mind if you have a play then. Rashly, then, lets assume it is air. This can be addressed top down or bottom up. Try this first. Leave the supply connected to the F&E tank so that it will continue to fill. Attach a hose to your draincock (somewhere at the lowest point of the system) and open it slowly to let a small amount of water out and let it continue to flow. Listen for any "tinkling" noises in the pipework. If you hear that it will come from water getting past a trapped bubble of air. Allow the water to continue to flow out of the hose (into the garden of course) and see if it shifts any air. If you hear any of the rads bubbling thats where it has ended up.
See how you get on with that for the time being.
Cheers
I tried this earlier and didnt hear any bubbling but a couple of the rads downstairs and the few visible pipes near them started to warm up. Nothing got hot but they just got a little warm. I let it run for about 40 mins and then turned the boiler back on to see if it had done the trick but no luck...
Does it sound like I'm on the right track??0 -
wallofbeans wrote: »Something has changed between the new rad being fitted and now.
Either air lock or the pump has failed...
back filling might sort it, think you probably need a plumber.0 -
wallofbeans wrote: »I tried this earlier and didnt hear any bubbling but a couple of the rads downstairs and the few visible pipes near them started to warm up. Nothing got hot but they just got a little warm. I let it run for about 40 mins and then turned the boiler back on to see if it had done the trick but no luck...
Does it sound like I'm on the right track??
Backfilling mentioned by eco-friendly is where you stick mains pressure up the hose you've been using as a drain ie the reverse of what you tried last night. The jubilee clip you've used to fasten the hose to the drain !!!! needs to be very firmly done up!
You could now follow G4Us suggestion now (you'll certainly have a bypass if you have an S plan system with separate motorised valves for domestic hot water (DHW) and Central Heating (CH) but if you have a single 3 port valve you may not).
As you asked:
CH is Central Heating.
You turn HW off at the programmer
The rads should be off once you have closed both flow and return valves completely. Make sure you take a note (for each valve) how far it was open - write down how many turns each takes to close so that they can be reopened the same amount later and the balance is roughly correct.
However, since you are asking questions at this level I think it would be wiser for you to call somone in this morning. Not being rude but otherwise there will be an all day exchange of posts and the job will take 10 times longer than it should.
CheersThe difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein0 -
just to let you all know.... got a plumber in today and turns out it was the pump! thanks for all the advice, all the things id already tried made his job a lot quicker!0
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