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water leak

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Good morning all
I had a electrician in to fit a 45 amp cooker cable (just bought a new cooker) and i left him alone while i went out to the dentist, while i was out he cut through a central heating pipe, he got a friend round to repair it with a pipe coupler. its 15mm hep2o pipework.
my concerns now are how good are these pipe couplers and there has been quite a large amount of water that has leaked under the flooring,
its suspended flooring made up of greenish sheets with white foam insulation underneath and what appears to be grey concrete blocks underneath that, there are plenty off air bricks about.will it dry out without any long term damage or is there something i need to do?
thanks

Comments

  • Yooj_2
    Yooj_2 Posts: 96 Forumite
    westy23 wrote: »
    Good morning all
    I had a electrician in to fit a 45 amp cooker cable (just bought a new cooker) and i left him alone while i went out to the dentist, while i was out he cut through a central heating pipe, he got a friend round to repair it with a pipe coupler. its 15mm hep2o pipework.
    my concerns now are how good are these pipe couplers and there has been quite a large amount of water that has leaked under the flooring,
    its suspended flooring made up of greenish sheets with white foam insulation underneath and what appears to be grey concrete blocks underneath that, there are plenty off air bricks about.will it dry out without any long term damage or is there something i need to do?
    thanks

    Relatively common occurance when lifting floorboards I am afraid, with the combination of electrical saws to lift the floorboards, and pipework notched into the surface of joists...

    Is the pipework plastic, or are you just referring to the coupler being plastic?

    How much water was there? I.e. when you got back, did it look like a flood, with standing water still about, or was it more like a soaking?

    Is the flooring still up, as this will aid evaporation?

    Was the cooker circuit a new circuit, or was it a replacement...I ask, because if it was new, and not just a like-for-like replacment, then the spark should be part-p registered, and therefore he will have suitable Public Liability and also an insurance backed guarentee for workmanship (covering you for 5 to 6 years), which are specific requirements under the Competent Persons schemes. Therefore, you should be ok, if he was Part p registered.

    The reality is that you should be fine, assuming that his mate fitted the coupler properly.

    Yooj
  • Yooj_2
    Yooj_2 Posts: 96 Forumite
    Forgot to mention...Dependent upon the type of CH system you have, you will probably have air in it now which will need to be bled....Did the sparks mate do this and test the CH?

    Yooj
  • westy23
    westy23 Posts: 207 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts
    hi yooj
    Electrician is part-p registered,he has done work for us before to a very high standard, cooker cable was a upgrade from a 6mm to a 10mm cable.
    there was no standing water anywhere, i presume it all went under the flooring(which is my main concern) i refiiled the central heating system, its a boilermate mk11 180 litres and i guess that was about the amount of water that went under the flooring.
    thanks
  • Yooj_2
    Yooj_2 Posts: 96 Forumite
    westy23 wrote: »
    hi yooj
    Electrician is part-p registered,he has done work for us before to a very high standard, cooker cable was a upgrade from a 6mm to a 10mm cable.
    there was no standing water anywhere, i presume it all went under the flooring(which is my main concern) i refiiled the central heating system, its a boilermate mk11 180 litres and i guess that was about the amount of water that went under the flooring.
    thanks

    Hmm, seems a fair bit of water, assuming he was unable to isolate the water before it all drained out of the system.

    Ok...a couple of things I would suggest first...Make sure that you get certificates for the work...these should be in the form of an EIC or MWC (Electrical Installation Certificate or Minor Works Certificate), which will come directly from the spark...Also make sure that you get the Part P building control certificate (this can take up to 30 or so days to arrive, therefore have a chat to the spark and make sure that he registers the job). When you chat to him, make sure that he registers the job for the 5-6 year guarentee, as this is the least he could do based upon the cut pipe. Finally, ask him to come back in around a month or so with a damp tester, and get him to check the level of damp under the floor.

    Yooj
  • roger196
    roger196 Posts: 610 Forumite
    500 Posts
    If your CH system lost a lot of water, there may now be insufficient inhibitor in the system (this stops your rads rusting through etc).
    The level needs to be checked and topped up as necessary.
  • westy23
    westy23 Posts: 207 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts
    Hi
    already bought some more sentinel x100, its more the long term implications of the water under the flooring that concerns me.
  • gas4you
    gas4you Posts: 2,602 Forumite
    You need to ask the simple question to him 'Did all the water from the heating system drain through the damaged pipe, or did he, once he had realised he had cut the pipe, then quickly attach a hose to a ch drain off and emptied most of it this way?'

    If you had 180 litres under your floor, I would want the floor taken up to dry properly.

    You will need 3-4 bottles of x100 for this system.
  • mikey72
    mikey72 Posts: 14,680 Forumite
    Sounds like it could be a suspended floor, in which case it will dry out ok, through the ventilation from the airbricks.
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