Weed-proofing a garden border

Andrew_Sam

Hi

I have a border of approx. 2 feet wide X 30 feet in length running the length of my back garden which is covered in various types of weeds.

After weeding I am seeking to add a weed-resistant membrane and several inches of gravel over the top soil to prevent (as much as possible) weeds from reoccurring.

I'm seeking a VERY strong weedkiller to apply liberally to the soil to kill off 100% any remnants of weeds (& their seeds) before I apply the membrane and stones. However most Weedkillers appear to be systemic (?) and require application to the affected weeds rather than allowing for liberal application to the soil to nuke any remaining blighters.

Any advice on specific Weed killer brands etc. I could apply via a watering can please?

I realise that I can't weed-proof the border completely but I'm seeking as robust a solution as possible to keep weeding to an absolute minimum.

Slight complication is that many of the weeds are gaining access under a fence which separates my garden from an alley.

Many thanks

Zanderman

The only weedkiller that will kill everything - seeds etc included - would be something very strong like Sodium chlorate. But nothing else will then grow on the site for a long time. So this is a very bad idea if you want to grow garden plants. And also a bad idea if there's a risk it will contaminate adjoining land. You don't want to poison someone else's land, even if it is just an alleyway.

'Normal' weedkillers, as you point out, can only really kill plants whilst in growth and visible - and perhaps you'll have to be content with that. That plus a fabric should stop most regrowth.

But what do you want to do afterwards? You describe it as a border - but it sounds (from your suggestion of covering with gravel) that you won't be using it as a border afterwards. In which case S Chlorate might be suitable - but frankly so would ordinary herbicide.

A systemic like Roundup (active ingredient Glyphosate), plus fabric, plus a few inches of gravel should be ample if you're not intending to dig through and plant anything. Yes a few weeds will come in under the fence now and then, and yes a few might,eventually get through the fabric - but zap then back regularly with roundup (buy the powder, not the pre-made solution - it's much cheaper, just refill an old prepared solution sprayer each time).

HTH

Yorkie1

Zanderman wrote: »

The only weedkiller that will kill everything - seeds etc included - would be something very strong like Sodium chlorate. But nothing else will then grow on the site for a long time. So this is a very bad idea if you want to grow garden plants. And also a bad idea if there's a risk it will contaminate adjoining land. You don't want to poison someone else's land, even if it is just an alleyway.

It is now illegal to use sodium chlorate

https://secure.pesticides.gov.uk/garden/getfullproduct.asp?productid=17261&pageno=1#notes

http://www.rhs.org.uk/Gardening/Help-advice/Garden-chemicals-and-pesticides/Chemicals

Kay_Peel

Before using weedkiller for the really persistent perennial thugs in your border, you can do a couple of things that will stop the annual weeds getting a hold. (Putting weed membrane and gravel down will not stop annual weeds sowing themselves into the gravel unfortunately)

1. SLOPE the soil away from the grass. I dig a trench so that there is a definite gap between border and grass. The border is higher at the back than the front. You'll see creeping buttercups, clover, couch grass and the rest trying to jump the gap and onto your border, but you just mow them away and keep them in check.

2. You've stopped the worst offenders - now you need a sharp hoe to deal with the annuals. When the soil is very dry, take your hoe and slip it just underneath the soil and cut the heads off the annuals. Do a small section of your border for 3 or 4 minutes each evening and you'll have the lot done in a week. You then just have to hoe the weeds when the fancy takes you. (Once a week for me - but its so easy that it becomes very satisfying). You'll loosen the soil, make it powdery looking and it will transform your border.

3. Zap any dandelions and weeds with brittle roots with your weedkiller.

Good luck

Lotus-eater

Kay_Peel wrote: »

1. SLOPE the soil away from the grass. I dig a trench so that there is a definite gap between border and grass. The border is higher at the back than the front. You'll see creeping buttercups, clover, couch grass and the rest trying to jump the gap and onto your border, but you just mow them away and keep them in check.

I've never understood this. I was told the same years ago and so I tried it, all that happened was the creeping weeds crept down the slope into the trench and then it was even harder to get them out.

A barrier method, I've found works much better. That is have a vertical barrier between the bed and the grass, up to mower height, that is, so you can mow over it.

ukjoel

Andrew_Sam wrote: »

Hi

After weeding I am seeking to add a weed-resistant membrane and several inches of gravel over the top soil to prevent (as much as possible) weeds from reoccurring.


Many thanks

WHY WHY WHY???

Surely if your putting down a weed supressing membrane this will stop any weeds coming through. Your wasting any money on chemical weedkillers. Any new weeds next year will be ones that have come in on the air and settled among the gravel but they wont be impacted by any chemicals you put down now.

Just go with the membrane.

Andrew_Sam

Thanks for the replies folks.

The most persistent weeds (if you can help me identify these please) are:-

1.Tall (up to 4 feet) leaves which look almost like those of a leek but have a tapered end and yellow flowers. Grows in clumps. Seems to have left large seeds in the soil following removal.

2.Tall again individual stems with small purple flowers/buds.

"Surely if you’re putting down a weed suppressing membrane this will stop any weeds coming through."

When I moved into the house there was already membrane down in other parts of the garden under the beds and weeds managed to pass through this some how?

"Before using weed killer for the really persistent perennial thugs in your border, you can do a couple of things that will stop the annual weeds getting a hold. (Putting weed membrane and gravel down will not stop annual weeds sowing themselves into the gravel unfortunately"

I've no grass. The bed has a fence to one side and a path to the other.

How do I prepare the soil before putting the membrane down please? At the minute the plants and weeds have been removed and the soil and remnants treated with Roundup Weed Killer. However the soil still contains bits of roots, seeds and pieces of weeds.

Zanderman

Andrew_Sam wrote: »

The most persistent weeds (if you can help me identify these please) are:-

1.Tall (up to 4 feet) leaves which look almost like those of a leek but have a tapered end and yellow flowers. Grows in clumps. Seems to have left large seeds in the soil following removal.

2.Tall again individual stems with small purple flowers/buds.

Are you sure these plants are/were 'weeds'? The first one you describe is rather large for a weed - and sounds almost like yellow flag/iris. But impossible to identify either from your descriptions, sorry. Need much more info on what sort of flower - and what sort of leaves for the second one.

Andrew_Sam wrote: »

How do I prepare the soil before putting the membrane down please? At the minute the plants and weeds have been removed and the soil and remnants treated with Roundup Weed Killer. However the soil still contains bits of roots, seeds and pieces of weeds.

Re preparing the soil, the best way is the old-fashioned way - dig over, repeatedly, and whilst doing so remove, by hand, any visible bits of root, seeds and pieces of weed. Takes time, but really is the only way to be sure - and even then the less visible fragments will still be there. But it will help a lot. Remember Roundup will only kill growing plants -it's for plants, not for treating soil (it is denatured on contact with soil, so don't waste it on just soil.)

olly300

Andrew_Sam wrote: »

How do I prepare the soil before putting the membrane down please? At the minute the plants and weeds have been removed and the soil and remnants treated with Roundup Weed Killer. However the soil still contains bits of roots, seeds and pieces of weeds.

You need to dig the roots up.

Lots of perennial weeds grow from bits of root and will grow under the weed suppressant membrane.

When I was clearing the garden where I grow my fruit and veg I dug up the weed roots then waited 3 weeks to see if anything else grew and then repeated. I only used weed killer on the plants that were coming through the fence i.e. were growing in neighbouring gardens.

In my own garden I had lots of bindweed and covering the area with weed suppressant membrane for 6 weeks-2 months meant that the roots came towards the surface so I could dig them out. Again I only use weed killer on weeds that come through from neighbouring gardens.