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New cycle proficiency test

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  • cinderfella
    cinderfella Posts: 419 Forumite
    edited 8 August 2011 at 3:35PM
    When turning right it is sometimes a good idea to just wait by the curb until there is no traffic at all. I learnt this by turning right one day and waiting on the centre line. There were a few cars coming towards me when one decided to overtake (he had not seen me), he finally saw me and overtook me on the wrong side of the road. Well, I am still alive but I never put myself in a compromising position on the road. The Highway Code might state rules but it was written a long time ago when there were not quite so many MANIACS on the road!

    As for occuping the centre of a lane, its a sure way of being killed. Who ever said that needs a serious talking to by the PLOD.
  • Limey
    Limey Posts: 444 Forumite
    All for cycle training, even if there's one part that's contencious the rest can only be doing some good.

    We have so many kids round where I live who are all over the roads, it's only a matter of time before one gets killed. :(

    I've always moved to the centre line when turning right, not too bothered about cars 'undertaking'.
  • Tinks74
    Tinks74 Posts: 201 Forumite
    One thing that amuses me (in an ironic sense) as a motorcyclist when learning to ride motorbike I was taught that even at slow speeds (for a motorbike) 30mph the correct protective clothing ie jacket, trousers, gloves, boots and full face helmets, should all be worn to prevent road rash in the event of an accident.

    Whereas cyclists who are capable of reaching similar speeds can often be found in shorts, t-shirts and trainers and faceless helmets.

    Also, anyone know what the safe stopping distance is for a cyclist is at 25 - 30mph?
  • custardy
    custardy Posts: 38,365 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Tinks74 wrote: »
    One thing that amuses me (in an ironic sense) as a motorcyclist when learning to ride motorbike I was taught that even at slow speeds (for a motorbike) 30mph the correct protective clothing ie jacket, trousers, gloves, boots and full face helmets, should all be worn to prevent road rash in the event of an accident.

    Whereas cyclists who are capable of reaching similar speeds can often be found in shorts, t-shirts and trainers and faceless helmets.

    Also, anyone know what the safe stopping distance is for a cyclist is at 25 - 30mph?

    well I bet my disc equipped bikes would give your bike a fright
    tyre traction is the limit to my braking system

    as for full face helmets
    some wear them but its slightly more effort pedaling than turning a grip /pushing a pedal
    so a little airflow is appreciated
  • Limey
    Limey Posts: 444 Forumite
    Tinks74 wrote: »
    Also, anyone know what the safe stopping distance is for a cyclist is at 25 - 30mph?

    In the wet with rubber block brakes about 50 meters.:rotfl:A million times better with disk brakes (which is why I want a set for my racing bike).
  • custardy
    custardy Posts: 38,365 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Limey wrote: »
    In the wet with rubber block brakes about 50 meters.:rotfl:A million times better with disk brakes (which is why I want a set for my racing bike).

    I was discussing this the other day with a roadie enthusiast
    he wasnt keen due to the probably requirement to beef up the frame/wheels for the tresses
    however I run a Boardman hybrid as a commuter
    reasonably light and runs discs (though I have replaced the OE cables for hydraulics)
    you could easily swap out the front forl for a disc compatible one and theres canti mods available from when MTBs started going from V's to disc
  • Limey
    Limey Posts: 444 Forumite
    edited 9 August 2011 at 11:33AM
    custardy wrote: »
    I was discussing this the other day with a roadie enthusiast
    he wasnt keen due to the probably requirement to beef up the frame/wheels for the tresses
    however I run a Boardman hybrid as a commuter
    reasonably light and runs discs (though I have replaced the OE cables for hydraulics)
    you could easily swap out the front forl for a disc compatible one and theres canti mods available from when MTBs started going from V's to disc

    I think I'd have to buy a new bike for disks, as I ride a Peugeot 106 Carbolite which is knocking on 20 years old. :cool: Lots of it's bits are odd sizes, I can't find a new seat post for love nor money. :(
  • custardy
    custardy Posts: 38,365 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    I would like to apologise for my typing just now
    left my glasses at work :o
  • custardy
    custardy Posts: 38,365 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Limey wrote: »
    I think I'd have to buy a new bike for disks, as I ride a Peugeot 106 Carbolite which is knocking on 20 years old. :cool: Lots of it's bits are odd sizes, I can't find a new seat post for love nor money. :(

    I was looking over this the other day

    http://www.cotic.co.uk/product/roadrat

    make a nice commuter
    road bikes are good for the open road but I dont like them in the city
  • Limey
    Limey Posts: 444 Forumite
    custardy wrote: »
    I was looking over this the other day

    http://www.cotic.co.uk/product/roadrat

    make a nice commuter
    road bikes are good for the open road but I dont like them in the city

    Nice :T , bit out of my price range though. Although the virtually new chainset, gears and wheels on my racer might be transferable.

    I like my racer round town as I can keep up with the traffic's acceleration and if it's dry braking. :rotfl:Mean's you're more a part of the flow rather than a wobbly obstruction. :D
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