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Loft conversion Questions

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We just started converting our loft into room.

Can anyone suggest good lighting? often people go for normal downlights was wondering if anyone can suggest anything different?

Secondly when we stripped everything found currently nothing under the tiles, between rafters we put in foam insulation. Should anything be put between tiles and insulation?

Thanks

Comments

  • zax47
    zax47 Posts: 1,263 Forumite
    Headroom is always the limiting factor in lighting loft conversion - hence the prolific use of downlights!

    Are you doing this conversion yourself? Had load calcs done? Strengthened floor? Got building regs approval?. Permanent stair access? (if it will be a bedroom - whether you sleep in it or not). Met min. headroom requirements?
  • PM
    PM Posts: 518 Forumite
    THe conversion was done many many years ago. We just ripped it out and redoing it with new insulation to make it warner and add ccouple more skylights.

    We have very good head room over 7 foot
  • The void that you put your insulation in should have an air gap to allow the timber rafters to 'breathe'. The previous owners of our house had the loft converted without building regs approval; when it came to selling time the foam insulation they had stuffed between the roof felt and the internal plasterboard had to come out when the survey flagged it up. They had also failed to reinforce the roof structure which had to be rectified before they could sell, by means of 4 massive timber beams spanning between a couple of newly reinforced ceiling joists and the apex of the roof.

    Anyways, let me know how you get on - we are also looking at ways to properly reintroduce the insulation in our attic, so we can use it as a study rather than a storage dumping ground.
  • Doozergirl
    Doozergirl Posts: 34,076 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    edited 23 June 2010 at 11:35PM
    I don't know the exact regulations, which may be a bit over the top but do apply common sense as well, but you shouldn't just stick foam insulation against the tiles. There should be felt of some description under the tiles and ventilation gaps to prevent condensation occuring and subsequent rot before you get to the insulation layer, iirc.

    If it were us looking at that in a house we'd bought then we wouldn't think twice about stripping the roof and doing it to modern standards. We'd looked at spray insulation which does attach itself to the tiles but I didn't feel comfortable with it.

    I'd get someone in to look at it and advise accordingly or you could call Kingspan(insulation company) and speak to a technical advisor. They are really very knowledgeable and helpful even though you have to buy their products through their suppliers, not directly from them. So they aren't advising you perhaps incorrectly just to sell you something, they genuinely know what they're talking about.

    Either way, you don't want to cause a problem that wasn't already there.

    http://www.insulateonline.com/index1.htm?pitched2.htm~main
    Everything that is supposed to be in heaven is already here on earth.
  • latecomer
    latecomer Posts: 4,331 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    we're just doing a loft conversion and we had to have a 50mm gap between the underside of the sarking boards and the insulation board. The insulation had to be 140mm thick kingspan in 2 layers.
  • Gizmosmum_2
    Gizmosmum_2 Posts: 448 Forumite
    Ok I'm confused. I've read all the books about loft conversions recommending the 50mm (or is some cases 25mm) and discussed this with my building control officers as I'm about to embark on a large loft conversion/extension - see DIY Loft Conversion thread.

    Building control have said that provided there is a breathable felt under the tiles there isn't any neeed for the 25 - 50mm gap. Info provided in the last couple of weeks so very current.
    Target of wind & watertight by Sept 2011 :D
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