Removing radiator and blanking off

GAZB

Im in the process of converting my loft , I want to fit the staircase up against the bedroom wall but there is a small radiator on there that will need to be removed , I dont want to refit it again , I know how to remove the radiator but im not sure what to do with the pipe work under the floor boards , is it just a case of cutting the pipes and blanking both ends off under the floor boards

ormus

assuming its the common two pipe system, then yes.

if its a single pipe system then join the two cut ends together again.

mikey72

Basically yes.
If there are two different pipes, one in, one out, drain it down, then cut them and cap them off. Re-fill with a corrosion inhibitor as well.

Beat me to it.

gabyjane

Hi we had this done in our kitchen, we used a plumber as he fitted our USA fridge so got him to do at the same time and was about £20 if that. Our pipes that were left though were out of the wall as opposed to the floor and he just capped them in the wall and then we had to re fill and plaster the wall.

mikey72

For £20 he couldn't have drained and re-filled.
If you're fast you can do it without draining down, and cap them off.
If you miss, or it goes wrong it's messy though. Plug the tank in the loft if you do it this way, but for a loft coversion the water will have a long way to go if it goes bad on you.

27col

If you cut the pipes using a pipe cutter, so as to leave a smooth end, all you then have to do is to put a push-fit stop-end onto the pipe. I always used to carry plastic stop-ends with me in case of emergency or for a temporary cap to put on the pipe.

gabyjane

[QUOTE=mikey72;33276865]For £20 he couldn't have drained and re-filled.
If you're fast you can do it without draining down, and cap them off.
If you miss, or it goes wrong it's messy though. Plug the tank in the loft if you do it this way, but for a loft coversion the water will have a long way to go if it goes bad on you.[/QUOTE]

Well he drained it how would i know if he refilled it? would he need to if it is not being used again..not sure on how they work hence him doing it! Anyway he did the whole job for £20 (just asked dh!), he was plumbing in our fridge at the same time so said he would do then. he is also a friend so it was cheaper than i guess should be.

mikey72

gabyjane wrote: »

Well he drained it how would i know if he refilled it? would he need to if it is not being used again..not sure on how they work hence him doing it! Anyway he did the whole job for £20 (just asked dh!), he was plumbing in our fridge at the same time so said he would do then. he is also a friend so it was cheaper than i guess should be.

I'm not criticizing him, just advising if you do it yourself, drain the system down, then re-fill with inhibitor included.
I do know plumbers who chop the pipes, get there thumb on, then get a stop end on, without draining down though. (Me, for one, but maybe not in a loft)

shandypants5

UhOh! I drained and repaired my heating system about 2 years ago and just let it refill itself fron the ball valve in the loft tank...

How much is this inhibitor and is it too late for me to add some now?

1984ReturnsForReal_2

has it got 2 lockshields on it?

mikey72

shandypants5 wrote: »

UhOh! I drained and repaired my heating system about 2 years ago and just let it refill itself fron the ball valve in the loft tank...

How much is this inhibitor and is it too late for me to add some now?

I'd drain and re-fill, circulate by turing the heating on, drain and re-fill etc until the water comes out clean, then re-fill with
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/79683/Plumbing/Central-Heating-Treatment/Sentinel-X100-Central-Heating-Scale-Inhibitor-1Ltr

added to the header as you re-fill.