Why is my CRT TV blowing the fuse?

Plarkster

pastmybest wrote: »

P.S. Does anyone think my wife is sabotaging the TV as she wants a new 40" flat screen

Well if there's any metal coat hangers sticking out of the back of it I'd say yes! :rotfl:

espresso

Stompa wrote: »

Mine is quoted as approx 155W. According to the user manual: "In the UK, the fuse fitted in this plug is 13A, and is approved by ASTA or BSI to BS1362. It should only be replaced by a correctly rated and approved type and the fuse cover must be refitted".

Don't forget that there is a current surge when you switch on a CRT TV, so you can't simply use W=VI.

I am well aware of the initial current surge that you speak of, as are the manufacturers of fuses.

Perhaps you should actually read BS 1362 which states:

BS 1362 specifies breaking-time/current characteristics only for fuses with a current rating of 3 A (marked in red) or 13 A (marked in brown). Examples for the required breaking-time ranges are

* For 3 A fuses: 0.02–80 s at 9 A, < 0.1 s at 20 A and < 0.03 s at 30 A.
* For 13 A fuses: 1–400 s at 30 A, 0.1–20 s at 50 A and 0.01–0.2 s at 100 A.

3 A fuses are intended mainly for small load (< 750 W) appliances, such as radios and lights. 13 A fuses are for larger load (<3.2 kW) appliances, such as heating and heavy-duty electric motors.

BS 1362 requires that plug fuses with any other current rating be marked in black. 5 A fuses are also commonly used for medium load (1250 W max.) appliances such as desktop computers and TV sets. Ratings of 1, 2, 7, and 10 amperes are also produced but rarely used (1 A, as found in some shaving-socket adapters, is 20 mm long (BS 646), but a BS 1362 version does exist).

The fuses are mechanically compatible; it is up to the user or appliance manufacturer to use the most appropriate rating.

espresso

pastmybest wrote: »

My current electrics are 16/18 years old and it is the individual fuse carrier called "ground floor sockets" that goes and all other electrics are still working.

What rating is this fuse?

kwikbreaks

Obviously the manufacturers thought differently as the poster confirmed that his TV has always had a 13A plug fitted.

In any event it isn't the fuse in the plug that is blowing - it's the one in the consumer unit

If this were mine I'd try the TV in a different socket and try something else in the suspect socket - that way the finger of blame can be pointed at either the TV or the socket. My money is on the socket.

pastmybest

espresso wrote: »

What rating is this fuse?

It is 30 amp

pastmybest

kwikbreaks wrote: »

Obviously the manufacturers thought differently as the poster confirmed that his TV has always had a 13A plug fitted.

In any event it isn't the fuse in the plug that is blowing - it's the one in the consumer unit

If this were mine I'd try the TV in a different socket and try something else in the suspect socket - that way the finger of blame can be pointed at either the TV or the socket. My money is on the socket.

I have just took the face plate off the socket and tightened all up but couldn't see anything obviously wrong. Will let the TV stand a while and try again.

I have been trying all I can find in the socket but no problems. Kettle, toaster, microwave, vacuum cleaner.

macman

But have you done the obvious and tried the TV in another socket, first on the same circuit and then on a different circuit (try the circuit marked 'upstairs sockets')? If it blows on the former, you have a circuit fault. The latter, a TV or plug fault.
If you still have the old style fuse carriers it's about time you considered getting your board upgraded to give you RCD protection.

kwikbreaks

Have you tried the TV in a different socket though?

If a 30A fuse at the consumer unit is blowing and the 13A fuse in the plug is surviving it really does suggest that there is something amiss with either the socket or the actual plug on the TV rather than the TV itself - if you have one kicking around it would be worth fitting a different plug just as a test.

pastmybest

An update.

I have now put a new plug on the TV and then took off the face plate on the socket on the wall and really made sure all wires were in the 'holes' and the screws tight.

Hope I am not speaking too soon (please please please) but whatever I have done has solved the problem. I do strongly suspect it was to do with the socket on the wall but I will have to now wait and see.

I will get an electrician in to check out the electrics generally as soon as we have got straight'ish from our move!!

A BIG THANK YOU TO EVERYONE. What would I do without these forums.

:beer::beer::beer::beer: