We’d like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum.
This is to keep it a safe and useful space for MoneySaving discussions. Threads that are – or become – political in nature may be removed in line with the Forum’s rules. Thank you for your understanding.
📨 Have you signed up to the Forum's new Email Digest yet? Get a selection of trending threads sent straight to your inbox daily, weekly or monthly!
The Forum now has a brand new text editor, adding a bunch of handy features to use when creating posts. Read more in our how-to guide
1 sheet of plasterboard - 5 sockets
aliasojo
Posts: 23,053 Forumite
I'm no stranger to putting up plasterboard and I usually take off the socket, leave the back box in place, cut out the hole for it and fit the board over the box iyswim.
I now have a sheet with 5 sockets in close proximity to each other. 3 at light switch height and 2 at socket height. I've been putting it off for ages.
I'm swaying between leaving the back boxes in place and cutting out as usual or taking off all boxes, putting plasterboard up, then cutting out holes in situ, and then replacing back boxes and sockets.
I'm conscious of the fact that one wrong cut will waste the whole board. There is also only maybe 2 inches between sockets so the board will be weaker at that point and more prone to breaking. What do you reckon the best way to do it is? Other than getting someone else to do it.
I now have a sheet with 5 sockets in close proximity to each other. 3 at light switch height and 2 at socket height. I've been putting it off for ages.
I'm swaying between leaving the back boxes in place and cutting out as usual or taking off all boxes, putting plasterboard up, then cutting out holes in situ, and then replacing back boxes and sockets.
I'm conscious of the fact that one wrong cut will waste the whole board. There is also only maybe 2 inches between sockets so the board will be weaker at that point and more prone to breaking. What do you reckon the best way to do it is? Other than getting someone else to do it.
Herman - MP for all!
0
Comments
-
2 inches should still be enough to leave strength in the board, the issue in any event is only going to be about the narrow strip between the sockets. Couple of ideas spring to mind - firstly you might be able to reinforce it - even something like a few layers of duck tape on the back will strengthen it. Secondly rather than cutting the sides of the whole which form the strip between the sockets I would get a very fine drill and carefully drill lots of holes down the line - you can then either use a saw to gently join them up, or maybe even just use the drill bit to mill out the remaining bits and join them up that way. The point being to avoid the stress of the saw motion as much as possible.
If the worse comes to the worse you'll just have to use filler to fill in the gaps between the sockets before skimming (I assume it will be skimmed over?)Adventure before Dementia!0 -
I'm not worried about the actual cutting ( I have a Fein MultiMaster which deals with this kind of thing easily), it's more about the accurate measuring and placing of the holes I think I'm concerned about. That's why I wondered if it might be easier cutting first and then putting in the back box to suit the hole rather than having to cut 5 holes to suit the box placement iyswim? I wondered if trying to manouever the board accurately over 5 boxes would put have a higher risk of accidentally putting strain on the weaker bit of the board. At least I think that's what I'm worried about.....I'm just worried generally. :rotfl:
It wont be getting skimmed btw. Just taped and filled.Herman - MP for all!
0 -
I would be tempted to cheat in terms of the measuring - take all the fronts off, and with the power off put something like a little dab of slow drying paint (gloss would do) on the edge of the back box (could probably get away with just doing to corners). Then if you carefully offer up the uncut sheet and press it against the back boxes, it will leave marks on the back showing exactly where you need to cut!Adventure before Dementia!0
-
Why can you not use dry lining boxes. Then you would only have to cut a rough hole in the p/b in the approximate middle of where the box needs to go, just to get the cable through. Then cut the hole for the box exactly where you want it. You have not said whether the wall is a stud wall or not.I can afford anything that I want.
Just so long as I don't want much.0 -
If your worried about the spacing of 2 inches you should be fine if your carefull, however why not use a stronger density board like soundbloc (blue) - or even better fireboard (pink) if your worried.
Use a PADSAW like this to cut it.
0 -
Make a template with some strong cardboard.0
-
When I had mine dot and dabbed, they just offered the board up gave it a tap where the boxes were and it imprinted their position onto the back of the board for cutting out.
Lots of adhesive around the sockets to prevent any weak points.0 -
Thanks all for the tips. Job is done now after the electricity being off all day and lots of careful measuring......BUT....I may have to take it off again tomorrow.

It's a stud wall and the insulation behind it where the shower pipes are, is just a tad too thick. I thought I could get away with it and the board would compress it but the board has just 'popped' over a p/b screw in one area so so it's clearly too thick there. I have stuck in another couple of screws top and bottom of the popped one but I'm worried about leaving it and it popping again in a couple of weeks. I should have erred on the side of caution but I opted to take a chance and it's bit me on the bum!
Herman - MP for all!
0
This discussion has been closed.
Confirm your email address to Create Threads and Reply
Categories
- All Categories
- 354.4K Banking & Borrowing
- 254.4K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
- 455.4K Spending & Discounts
- 247.3K Work, Benefits & Business
- 604K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
- 178.4K Life & Family
- 261.5K Travel & Transport
- 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
- 16K Discuss & Feedback
- 37.7K Read-Only Boards