Wood framing question

aliasojo

I've built stud partition walls previously so know the basics but what I don't know is whether I could successfully use 3" x 2" timber on it's side rather than it's back, so the sole plate would be 2 " wide and 3" high rather than the normal 3" wide and 2" high?

I need to box something off and I need a cube shape roughly 1m x 1m x 1m but am trying to save as much floor space as possible due to needing to fit something else in. I'd save an inch if I turned the wood, desn't sound much but 25mm would help out.

I thought I could notch a piece out of the upright so it interlocked with the sole plate rather than just sitting on top of it and it would then be glued and screwed. If I drilled a hole a little way down into the wood, I can still use the same size screws to fix the soleplate.

I know you wouldn't build a wall in this way but could I get away with making a cube like this? I need to save space but I also need it to be strong.

ormus

ive built stud walls with just 2x2, so its no big deal. obviously not as strong as 3x2 or 4x2, but it did the job ok.
ps
i built the stud frame on the floor and fitted it all in one piece. that way i could put wacking great screws in all the stud ends, from both plates.

aliasojo

Looking at the first cut, the notched upright fits well with the sole plate and it seems sturdy enough. I can't really see any reason why I shouldn't do this but it's one of those ' I haven't done this before and I'n no expert so am apprehensive it's going to be seriously wrong' situations.

The 3" height of the sole plate will be better for fixing skirting to, as well.

As you did, I intended to fix it together first and then fix to the wall. I've already put wood noggins inside the wall to provide a secure fix so I expect it will be fine. Just having a wee confidence crisis.

Thanks.