Wireless room programmer recommendations?

waynehayes

We curently have a Salus 300RF wireless room thermostat/programmer for the central heating system. It's ok but a little basic, so I'd like to replace it with something more advanced. I'd like it to be programmable, be abled to turn the heating to just on or off independantly of the timer, leaving the hot water on. ANy recommendations? Thanks.

Canucklehead

waynehayes wrote: »

We curently have a Salus 300RF wireless room thermostat/programmer for the central heating system. It's ok but a little basic, so I'd like to replace it with something more advanced. I'd like it to be programmable, be abled to turn the heating to just on or off independantly of the timer, leaving the hot water on. ANy recommendations? Thanks.

Good evening: my OH fits this to Vaillant, Viessmann and Remeha combis.

HTH

Canucklehead

macman

Canucklehead, is the Honeywell CM927 suitable for all combis please? (I have a Sime 80E Friendly Format combi). I currently just have a wired Honeywell T6360 room 'stat on it, which is basic to say the least. I was thinking of changing it for a digital room 'stat, (Honeywell DT90?) but maybe a proper programmer is the way to go?
I like the described features on the CM927, (especially the 'Optimum Start' one)-would you say that the product lives up to the marketing hype?

Canucklehead

Hi

All combis will take external controls,but you will need to disable the internal clock. (consult Sime)
Honeywell are a good brand and fitted properly will do the job.


GSR.

macman

Canucklehead wrote: »

Hi

All combis will take external controls,but you will need to disable the internal clock. (consult Sime)
Honeywell are a good brand and fitted properly will do the job.


GSR.

Thanks, I assumed it was just a matter of switching the mechanical boiler timer permanently to 'on' and letting the programmer control everything.
I've since realised that Honeywell make a wired version of the CM927 (the CM 907), which would suit me better as it's half the price and the wiring is already in place, so I don't really need wireless.
As far as I can tell the CM907 is identical in every other respect?

ic

I was going to recommend the same Honeywell control as soon as I saw the question. Only go for wireless if you want to be able to relocate the controls, if you're happy where they are (should be coldest room in the house), then go with the wired version.

gas4you

I also only fit the CM927. About the best and easiest to use at present.

macman

I have now bought a Honeywell CM907 (the wired version). Can someone help me with the wiring on this please?
I currently have a Sime 80E combi boiler and a mechanical Honeywell room 'stat, model T6360B. 2 'stat terminals on the combi (T22 is live/brown, T23 is neutral/blue)), brown and blue wires connected to terminals 1 and 3 on the 'stat respectively.
The CM907 has terminals marked A, B and C. Do I just connect brown to A (live) and blue to B (neutral)?
What's confusing me slightly is that the old 'stat required mains power. but the programmer is battery powered, so the cable is only supplying a feed for the switch?

espresso

macman wrote: »

I have now bought a Honeywell CM907 (the wired version). Can someone help me with the wiring on this please?
I currently have a Sime 80E combi boiler and a mechanical Honeywell room 'stat, model T6360B. 2 'stat terminals on the combi (T22 is live/brown, T23 is neutral/blue)), brown and blue wires connected to terminals 1 and 3 on the 'stat respectively.
The CM907 has terminals marked A, B and C. Do I just connect brown to A (live) and blue to B (neutral)?
What's confusing me slightly is that the old 'stat required mains power. but the programmer is battery powered, so the cable is only supplying a feed for the switch?

T6360B - Live to 1 Neutral to 2. Live on 1 connects to 3 when heat is required.

CM907 - A connects to B when heat is required but the Neutral used for the anticipator resistor, is not required and should be left unconnected and insulated.

macman

Thanks espresso, slightly confused here, as existing T6360B is wired Live to 1, Neutral to 3. Nothing on 2.
So on the CM907 I only need to connect the Live to A?

espresso

macman wrote: »

Thanks espresso, slightly confused here, as existing T6360B is wired Live to 1, Neutral to 3. Nothing on 2.
So on the CM907 I only need to connect the Live to A?

OK the T6360B has an anticipator resistor, which is normally wired to Neutral on 2 e.g. Live to 1 & Neutral to 2. The switched Live is on 3.

If you only have two wires, then they simply connect across the switch contacts A & B on the CM907, which close when heat is required.