How easy is it to do fencing?

elektra-2007

Plasterer wrote: »

Use close board like this picture, easy with 2 of you. As already suggested use the postecreate bags (yellow bags in background) - Dig your hole - put post in, put a couple of litres of water in the hole and throw the mix in then tamper it with a stick, keep adding water/mix accordingly, goes of in minutes (which gives you enoujgh time to level it up) materials for this fence both sides cost £320 total for 30 metres delivered + one day for two of you to do.
In the pic i'm using a pasloade nailgun which speeds things up, however not really a diyer tool - Use a hammer and nails and you should get it done in a day. The fence is a lot stronger than pannels and if treated and maintained properly should last for years to come.




PS - Sorry about the builders a*s

WOW im impressed, ive been asking around today and everyone I have spoken to has said to use concrete aswell, so i reakon thats the way to go. I am ok at DIY, and will certanly give anything ago. I think i had in mind concrete that takes days to set, but if postcrete takes minuetes thats what I am going to do. I dont need the fence to look good on both sides as its dividing my own garden.
So just a few questions!! My fence is going to be 4ft high so do i get 6ft posts and bury 2ft of the post? How far apart is best to have the posts if im going to nail boards to the rails...and i noticed on the pic your overlapping the boards do i nail the overlapped part or just the part that goes against the rails? One last question, my garden slopes upwards so how do i keep the fence straight?
Thanks

RICHLILL

Keep your posts around 6 foot apart. Or alternativley measure the full run and divide roughly to the nearest 6 so you dont get a filler section at on end.

Put a post in either end. 2 foot depth for the holes is a bit excessive, you could get away with 1.5 but if its easy digging the deeper the better. Level with a spirit obviously. Tie two string lines from your first post to the end post at the top and at ground level. Dig out you holes. Dig in your first plinth (if your using them) at the end going up the hill until it sits level with the lower end. This way u dont have any unsightly gaps under the ends at the lower end. Its more work but looks loads better. Put the next post in using the strings as a guide. and repeat until all posts/plinths are in.

Cut the vertical rails to slide between your posts and slide them above the plinths.

Next, start by nailing the thin edge of a board to the rails keeping the thin edge tight to the post, then slide the next boards thin edge behind the first boards thick edge and put a nail through both. Repeat and work your way along to the next post. Before you start you need to work out how many boards it will take to make a pannel, taking into account how much overlap you want. Its a good idea to mark on the rails with a spirit level so you can just line up the boards when you nail them in.

Good luck

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wallbash

The only I would add. I make up a 'spacer ' . its two very small pieces of wood , nailed at right angles , The length of each leg is equal , to the wood which is left exposed.

That is not the best description, but it allows you to easily keep the boards vertical.

roddydogs

Dosent Feather edge need to be drilled for the nails? or it will split?

wallbash

I never have .

ormus

when ive done post an rail fences in the past, (picket type) ive made the 6ft or 8ft panels on the ground first.
then attached them to the rails. so much easier.