Continued smears on new car

davemorton

banger9365 wrote: »

i would not us a chamois leather,us a micro fiber towel one for roof and one for each sides and one for back and front
and not wasing up liquid

IN normal circumstances, I would agree, but before claying a car it is a good thing to do as it removes any wax on the car, and in this instance, would remove any crappy 'wax'n'shine' etc. the dealer had used.

Also I echo the comment about washing in sunlight, try, if possible to wash the car in the shade.

steveo3002

as said if you care a monkeys about the finish , stay away from the car washer places

buy a bucket and some shampoo and do it yourself carefully...theres lots of damage threads where these guys mark peoples cars, just think about it the sponge /mitt/brush has prob just been on some muddy 4x4 before it goes on your bonnet

maninthestreet

amf wrote: »

Thanks folks :beer:

I have been over to detailing world and its clear that I've a lot to learn :eek: Any ideas about the best places to get a hold of decent lambswool mit, microfibre mit and microfibre towel or should I just follow the recommendations on detailing world?

Try the following sites:


http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/

http://www.prestigepolish.co.uk/index.php

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/seek-advice.html

steveo3002

usualy lots on ebay

AdrianHi

You have probably discovered the merits of wash mitts and the "two bucket" method by now. Looking atthose pictures you posted it looks like using a decent car shampoo and more thorough rinsing followed by mcro fibre towel drying. You may need 2 or three towels, it looks like the towel you were using was getting too wet to dry the car properly.
I will also recommend Duragloss Aquawax http://www.ccs-inc.co.uk/sb-products.asp?productid=2323&category=
Spray on sparingly after rinsing, before drying, small area at a time. You don't need to get the surface bone dry to get a smear free finish with this stuff and a microfibre towel.
You'll also have a very shiney car next morning

amf

Thanks again....much helpful advice :beer:

I've done a couple of things today;-

1. Was in Costco and got a pack of 2 Eurow microfibre drying cloths (large with pockets for hands) and a pack of 4 lambskin wash mitts. Around £15 the lot. Now to exhibit my recently gained knowledge of the 2 bucket method.

2. Ran car through mechanical wash to try to get it looking worse before visiting AC. It didn't come out as bad as before, but was still bad at boot lip area. 2 guys from AC's paintwork shop took a look. One wiped a panel with a soft cloth and the marks disappeared. The other looked at the boot lip, the rear light cluster and boot glass area. They both thought it was salt marks. They pointed out that there was a layer of "dust" over much of the car, so the problem was atmospheric. They pointed to a layer of fine dust along the rear wiper - this was noticable when the wiper was lifted. I ran my finger over one of the marks on the boot lip and noticed a fine layer of sand on my finger. They were adamant that this was salt - I stay in the Glasgow area and our roads have been well salted over the winter. They denied it was the transit wax, pointing out that a layer of this would be that thick it would be easily noticed. They kindly got the power hose to wipe off the dust.

I'm concerned that few other cars locally have similar marks. I've uploaded 2 further pics. The first hopefully makes the marking clearer - its on the boot lip. The second is of the rear wiper area - you can just make out the line of dust (this was much clearer before AC got their hose onto it).

http://tinypic.com/m/9fvgo5/2

I've managed to do my back in today so the first self hand wash is postponed for a day or 2. I will report back once done.

Thanks again for all your help

steveo3002

that to me looks like dust stuck to some water left behind after washing

see how it looks after a proper wash..good luck

amf

Update;-

My back recovered enough for me to do manual wash yesterday - using lambswool mit to wash and decent microfibre cloth to dry. When I dug it out the lockup this morning there was just an odd water mark. So whatever the problem is, it seems to revolve around any water on the car attracting vast quantities of dust or whatever

I also noticed over the last couple of days that the paintwork on the panel linking the roof with the bonnet on the driver's side having the paint stripped over an extended area - in some parts it has a wave pattern, in others a mixture of diagonal and vertical lines - odd. When I rub my nail over the area I can feel ridges. I've uploaded 3 photos;-

http://tinypic.com/m/9h2qtx/2

There are also some similar but smaller lines and swirls on the driver's door. I took the car back to AC this afternoon. The guy said that the marks on the roof to bonnet panel was scratches. I suggested that they were the oddest scratches I've ever seen. I asked if he thought it coincidence that there were smaller similar marks elsewhere. He thought these too were scratches.

I said that, if this was his final word, I would need to arrange for an independant inspection. He said that the rep from Vauxhall was visiting in 2 days time. He added that he would phone me to bring the car down once the rep arrived. He added that Vauxhall had the final say but would ask his opinion - which is "scratches". It seems a waste of time but I might as well go ahead and give them every chance.

It seems clear that I will have to go for an independent inspection. Apart from sticking a pin in Yellow Pages is there a best way to pick an inspector?

All advice welcome since I'm well out my depth

cyclonebri1

New paint or paint on a new car is soft, it takes ages, maybe a year to cure. Cure, not dry, there is a real difference.

Any abrasion, birdshit etc will etch into the surface, hopefully only the laquer

It can usually be cured as others have said

amf

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

New paint or paint on a new car is soft, it takes ages, maybe a year to cure. Cure, not dry, there is a real difference.

Any abrasion, birdshit etc will etch into the surface, hopefully only the laquer

It can usually be cured as others have said

Thanks for that......but i'd welcome comments on the best way to find an appropriate independent paintwork inspector.