We’d like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum.

This is to keep it a safe and useful space for MoneySaving discussions. Threads that are – or become – political in nature may be removed in line with the Forum’s rules. Thank you for your understanding.

📨 Have you signed up to the Forum's new Email Digest yet? Get a selection of trending threads sent straight to your inbox daily, weekly or monthly!
The Forum now has a brand new text editor, adding a bunch of handy features to use when creating posts. Read more in our how-to guide

Sash Windows

Looking at getting some new sash windows in my home, only five to be done as can't afford the lot to be replaced.:( However can anyone advise a better type to get? I have had a joiner quote for softwood sash windows which has come in at a reasonable price, however have also got a quote for engineered wood which is approx £1000 more but come with a guarantee for paint, rot, damp etc. Is it worth splashing out the extra cash?
£460/2000 mortg overpayment

Comments

  • Ionkontrol
    Ionkontrol Posts: 802 Forumite
    Yes, hardwood all the way. It will last longer.
  • leveller2911
    leveller2911 Posts: 8,061 Forumite
    edited 9 March 2010 at 6:59PM
    Hi Hilly, Like Ionkontrol says don't go for softwood , if you can afford to go for a decent hardwood like Sapele,Iroko or Brazilian Cedar,don't go for "Hardwood " windows made from Meranti(cheap and doesn't last much longer than softwood.
    Softwood windows will last 10-15yrs maximum before you start to see rot and will need repairing,replacing soon after.A good hardwood window will last 35-50yrs.

    The vast majority of your quote will be labour so its worth spending a little more money on a more durable timber.
    Its very important to get a good decorator to paint them.The old saying "anyone can paint" is not true as a good painter will help the windows last longer.A painter can make or break a job.

    PS "Engineered" softwood timber is basically pieces of timber glued together and then planed up.Its more stable than softwood,but its still softwood.They will guarantee it against de-laminating(falling apart) but its not all its cracked up to be.I make joinery for a living and haven't made a softwood door or window in the last 4-5yrs,simply because its grown too fast,kiln dried and has no durability to it.
  • diable
    diable Posts: 5,258 Forumite
    Ionkontrol wrote: »
    Yes, hardwood all the way. It will last longer.
    Who was the forum member who also advised on which hardwoods to use as not are all the same?
  • We also need some Sash windows.
    but was wandering can we get double glazing put into our Sash windows frames as is
    (they have lasted 20yrs+ and have still life in them)
    or can we keep the frame and just replace the 'sash' (up-down) bit?
    Im in near manchester, any recommendations?
    thanks
  • leveller2911
    leveller2911 Posts: 8,061 Forumite
    edited 9 March 2010 at 10:08PM
    We also need some Sash windows.
    but was wandering can we get double glazing put into our Sash windows frames as is
    (they have lasted 20yrs+ and have still life in them)
    or can we keep the frame and just replace the 'sash' (up-down) bit?
    Im in near manchester, any recommendations?
    thanks


    Hi Single, it is possible to retro fit double glazed units into existing sashes,but there are a few issues.

    Firstly you need a rebate deep enough to house the units in(commonly 4-4-4+14mm for putty=26mm rebate).They can be made deeper by using a router.Many gazing bars (deviding bars) can be as little as 16mm wide,frequently 18,20 and 22 mm wide.On double glazed units the "spacer bar" (metal devide between the two sheets of glass) can be 8.5mm x4mm this means that when you look through the window you may see a silver line running around the site line(perimeter of glass where it meets the timber of the sash) which can look ugly.

    If the existing sashes are say 42mm thick with 20mm wide glazing bars then they can be alter.You would also need to retro fit draught excluders.
    One final point which is very important, remember the weight of each sash will almost double so you will need to increase the weights considerably.If the weight pockets are narrow then it may not be possible as you would need a very long, slender weight to balance the sash.If the weight is too long the sashes wont open/close fully...

    Personally I prefer making new boxframes ,start with a clean sheet and everything works/fits well,but I do understand cost issues.If you plan to sell in the next 5yrs then go for it, if you plan to stay long term then wait and save up for new windows.......

    Hope my post isn't too confusing,not easy to describe.:D
This discussion has been closed.
Meet your Ambassadors

🚀 Getting Started

Hi new member!

Our Getting Started Guide will help you get the most out of the Forum

Categories

  • All Categories
  • 354.4K Banking & Borrowing
  • 254.4K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
  • 455.4K Spending & Discounts
  • 247.3K Work, Benefits & Business
  • 604K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
  • 178.4K Life & Family
  • 261.5K Travel & Transport
  • 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
  • 16K Discuss & Feedback
  • 37.7K Read-Only Boards

Is this how you want to be seen?

We see you are using a default avatar. It takes only a few seconds to pick a picture.