Help with heating a childs room

northernsoul

I have an old 1900 ish house built of stone. It is on a hillside. It is about 8 foot above the road at the front and level at the back. a draft comes into the lounge and celler under the Kitchen. It cannot have wall insulation as it is not suitable. The attic is a bedroom. i have insulated at the eves and put kingspan in the ceiling roof. I now get loads of condensation on the Kingspan (prob should have used something else. Some houses cannot easily be insulated. I would like to insulate my house more but it is not easy or suitable or it costs too much (internal/external insulation) Also we can give advice on this forum but it does not have to be taken! Chill out if its not taken and dont let it stop you contributing!

pingua

Our bedrooms are always freezing too - no heaters in them. We have one portable one that the kids move from room to room if they are in their rooms for any length of time. We have storage heaters downstairs which do a bad job. I keep my coat on most of the time !!

AGBAGB

Just noticed you say there's a Thermostat on the bed room rad. If this is a TRV. then it could be stuck. When the heating is on does changing the setting make any differance. ie. turn off when you turn it down?

lovethymini

27col wrote: »

I have to ask lovethymini. Why do you live in an uninsulated house in this day and age?

We're renting. I didn't even think to ask whether it had adequate insulation or not before we signed up for 6 months. (Now there's a top tip for anyone looking to rent a place)

a.w.buildingservices

your radiators just need balancing just turn the two in the living room till they are of then slightly open the valves back up
if it is a new house then they should have been fitted with tvr's get back on to the builder and demand them, and best of luck with a new house i will give it 5 years before it starts to drop to bits

a.w.buildingservices

NORTHERNSOUL you say you are getting condensation on your kingspan have you left at least 25mm behind it for the roof to breath also have you coverd it in plaster board if not you are bound to get condensation on it also the building regs insulation for lofts is 100 m between rafters with 25 mm underneath and then 12.5mm plasterboard and skim if you follow that you wont kget any condensation

northernsoul

Hi a.w.buildingservices. I put the Kingspan on the underneath of the rafters thereby leaving the max poss ventilation gap, ie the depth (think about 3 inch) of the rafters, this in itself created problems sealing where the kingspan butted up against the pearling . the pearling is old and uneven and has had an extra piece of secondary pearling bolted onto it as it had a long crack in itself. there is a slight draft where they are bolted together and at the butting point of the kingspan when windy (could put in expanding form but concerned it might block the air gap if i put too much in . Originally the ceiling was lat and lime and being much much thinner sort of went over the top of the pearling and sealed it. there was no condensation with the lat and lime. The condensation is on the felt which drops onto the Kingspan above the pearling (from apex to pearling) then fa;lls down the Kingspan until it reaches the butting against the pearling. The water then runs down the side of the pearling staining it. It is covered in plasterboard. Apart from the 100mm gap (think its more like 3 inch) it is similar to the regs. didnt want to go to bother of extending the depth of the rafters. 3 things come to mind. 1/ One side of attic is used for storage in the 'lost' space near the eves and maybe the door is letting in moist air. 2/ moist air is getting in where the kingspan butts against the pearling and in the gap between the original pearling and the secondary pealing. 3/ there was hardly ever a draught coming from the eves when it was being done. I wonder if 100 years old houses were designed to have sufficient ventilation at the eves for mordern day living. I never saw light or a gap at the eves. Thanks for your reply
Edit : as far as i remember it is 50mm Kingspan, def more than 25mm. Sorry to original poster for slight hijack

JoolzS

I have no idea why you are so bothered about your kid's heating. So long as s/he is wrapped up warm overnight then s/he will be fine.

Nearly everyone I grew up with remembers waking up with "jack frost" on the inside of their windows. It's not the nicest way to wake up - but it's also not unusual. I was one of the lucky ones because my mum put in central heating which was unusual in the 1970s.

Babies can be wrapped up warm, and so can one year olds. No-one needs heating in their bedroom once they have gone to bed (other than, probably, some people with medical conditions).

Julie

dgillespie

27col wrote: »

So you have decided to ignore the advice to get the heating working properly and spend the money getting extra portable heating installed. I sometimes wonder why we bother.

excuse me, ive barely had time or money to buy a portable heater so dont add in the attitude to a fairly simple topic/conversation.
yes id love to install switches and regulators and any of the other things to my heating system.
I dont have the money!!!!callout charges and parts and labour and blah blah.
that is the only small problem i have regarding the system...is that the kids room is cold.
thanks to the people who added fair opinions and suggestions
joolzs im bother because its my kids i dont like there hands and noses being like icicles...and also id like not to walk in the room and shudder at the cold
Thanks

i will buy a oil filled radiator at some point but for the minute the baby is sleeping in the living room as we are painting his room and it is a bit warmer

macman

You don't need 'switches or regulators', you just need to get the CH working properly as it was designed too. This could be something as simple as bleeding the radiator or balancing the system. Why buy additional heating and bump up your electricity bills when the fix is probably very simple?