Remote training collar

zaksmum

I just don't know, Raksha. I love the little rascal to bits and I just want to keep him safe, but he needs to be off lead sometimes too.

He plays well with my other dog Lucy, even in the house, but Jack will come to me rather than Lucy if he has a choice. Lucy's great with him...tolerant but puts him firmly in his place when he needs it! She's definitely top dog between them.

That's a great idea though, only rewarding the dog who gets to me first. I'll give that a go.

I know dogs may have no concept of "naughty" but Jack certainly knows when he's overstepped the mark...he even gives the game away at times, looking guilty before we discover the crime!!

pinklover

Based on my post earlier in the thread ' dogs run off during walks..', my problem is similar too as in apart from chasing birds/rabbits, Gizmo and Hanzo both will just run off to other dogs close by or even far away when we're out on walks. As we live in barracks, it's fence off and fairly safed. The dogs we encounter are all the ones they've met before as they all live in the barracks, so it is not that of a new friend they're sniffing etc. The only thing I can add is again not necessarily down to recall training because in normal circumstances, they do come back but it is only when something so much fun is happening that they just can't control their excitement and decided to say hello to the other dogs. As Gizmo is only a toy dog, he is not seen as a threat to most other dogs but Hanzo is big Jap Akita Inu, which is really a big teddy who get bully most times by Gizmo! But other owners are scare of him becos of his size and sometimes the speed he'll run to their dogs!

I haven't yet find a solution to this yet, but so far have been very alert in the presence of other dogs at a distance and managed to put them back on leads before they spotted the other dogs..but that's not a solution really. I'm also as mentioned on previous post training them the Control Unleashed programme so they can built up their self control when in those situation. I think many times, they can definitely sense your emotion as well becos I used to be very worry/anxious when they're approaching other dogs, I'll keep screaming for them the come back, taking out treats etc etc and that definately make it worse. Whereas now, I'm trying not to be too bothered about it and though they seem to go off to greet other dogs, they don't take that much of an interest and do come back/follow me shortly, so I guess it is the more you don't want them to do, they'll do and the opposite as well.

In regards to the collar, my husband actually bought a shock collar for Hanzo when he was a puppy, I was soooo against it but being a Jap Akita Inu, he can be quite stubborn to train so we used it briefly to stop him eating stones on his walks. Sad to say that it actually work wonders after just a few try and he has since off this little habit completely. We've only used the collar for that reason and have now sold the collar. I think in that situation, it could work but certianly not in the case of stopping him to go to other dogs as they really will make him scare of other dogs in the future and will become agressive and frustrated as a result. I don't think collars (spray/shock) is suitable for recall training as dogs won't be able to register the cue of spray/shock with returning back to you, it might stop them running but probably won't recall back though.

sarabe

Recall is less about a dog that comes when called and more about a dog that wants to be with you.

Calling your dog and giving him a treat just aint gonna cut it when there is a chance to play with another dog instead.

Things to consider for maximum impact are: All of the dog's food is given by hand in an outside environment, garden to start with and then on a walk. No sit, wait or anything like that just run backwards, say your dog's name in a very excited voice and feed handfuls of his dinner to him.

Make sure that games with you are valuable. Keep toys like tugs and balls just for playing with with you, again outside only. No playing indoors, every time you have a moment to play, grab a toy, run outside and play tug. Let your dog win the tug game for maximum effect and fun. He'll either drop it, bring it back for another game or if he is used to making his own fun then he'll run off with it, in which case you produce a second toy and make yours more fun or you play with the dog on a line.

And of course the ultimate reward that you can give your dog is access to other dogs, however you must teach your dog to check in with you first otherwise this will hold no value as a reward if he can just take it for free.

I teach this by using a long line having first built value for food and toys and teaching the dog that if he sees another dog it is really, really worth him telling me 'hey Mum, there is another dog over there' by coming back to me and collecting the reward of food or game or 'okay off you go'. This gives me a few vital seconds to assess whether of not the dog that he has seen would be a suitable playmate and more importantly if the owner is aggreeable.

If you clicker train this it can usually be taught in one session. Look at that dog, come back to me. Proofing it for the real world will depend on how consistent you are in maintaining the behaviour and not allowing the dog to run off.

I would also avoid calling your dog when he clearly isn't going to come or just calling him back to give him a treat when he's busy as this will have the opposite effect.

Imagine if I won the lottery, no even better the European lottery and I gave you a million quid of of the 30odd million that I had won. Then I asked you if you would like to come and do a day's boring office work for me and I'll pay you top whack - whatever that is - lets say £200 for a days work. Could you be bothered?

Rewarding a dog for wanting to be with you is way nicer than punishing one that doesn't.

zaksmum

Well Jack certainly does want to be with me. In the house he's like my shadow...he can be fast asleep and if I so much as move his eyes snap open and he's up and following me, even to the toilet.

Outdoors he's inclined to stick close. I can feel his nose at my knee as I walk. Until, that is, he sees another dog...!

Today he really disgraced himself. There are some bad ASBO lads in a family that just moved into my road, and they have three staffies. These dogs are weapon type dogs to the lads, who strut round dressed all in black with the dogs seeming to be permanently snarling.

I'd just gone into my gate and let Jack off the lead when one of the lads got out of a taxi with the female staffie on the lead.

Jack's ears went up and he nearly flattened me to get to the staffie - got suddenly VERY visibly aroused ( big pink thing!!) and tried to give the staffie a good seeing to!

Fortunately the lad was ok about it as I grabbed Jack's collar and hauled him away. But I think those bits of his will have to go.

tandraig

have you tried teaching him STOP!! this means that instead of the recall he freezes in place while you walk (or run) over to him and put him on lead? I had a freind who trained her lab to do this - but that was to stop him stealing food! just thought it may be of help to you. I would ask her how she did it, but she is now passed on.

zaksmum

tandraig wrote: »

have you tried teaching him STOP!! this means that instead of the recall he freezes in place while you walk (or run) over to him and put him on lead? I had a freind who trained her lab to do this - but that was to stop him stealing food! just thought it may be of help to you. I would ask her how she did it, but she is now passed on.

Yes, He's usually very good at that, too. I say "DOWN!" and he does immediately go into the "down" position which I was really happy with.

HOWEVER......seems a nubile young lady dog has far more attraction for him than pleasing his old mum....!!