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Tips for knocking off plaster

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  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
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    Yeah - I don't see whats wrong with a bolster and lump hammer meself. The old SDS just gets it off quicker if you have one.

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • David_Aldred
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    Hi,
    There is nothing wrong with taking plaster off with a hammer and chisel and indeed I have taken plaster off myself this way and the only suggestion of using mechanical means is for speed and ease especially where plasters are of a type that are hard and dense or where the area to be removed is significant (i.e throughout a three bed semi).

    To give you an example a two man team with a kango can usually have a three bed semi house prepared in a day for the plasterers to follow and an average person attempting that by hand, especially where hard dense plasters may be present may struggle to match that.

    110V is a safer equipment voltage for construction site use full stop and hence a construction industry standard. Of course you can use a 240V AC in a domestic situation if you want but that is your choice and not a recommendation such that it is simply stated as a safer preferance for an area where live electrical cables in a construction environment are at risk of being compromised by mechanical damage or water referring not only to those buried within walls but those trailing on floors that are in use. If you grab hold of 240V AC you may well not be able to let go of it.

    Kindest regards, David Aldred Independent damp and timber surveyor.
  • anna.bloom
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    Hi

    Thank you so much for all your comprehensive replies.

    Our surveyor told us that there is a DPC on the external walls, but we have an outhouse, which is single skin, and the plaster inside is all crumbling away.

    We were told we have rising damp by a damp proofing company. Certainly we could not plaster over it, it seems damp all the way through.

    We had some eletrics chased into the wall and I know they didnt find it easy, it was hard cement. So I have decided not to knock that plaster off!

    We are getting some builders in to do it. The damp proofing guy quoted £900 to remove and re-render walls, hoping to do that for about £300!
  • David_Aldred
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    Hi Anna,
    If it is single skin you might want to consider a waterproof membrane lining system incorporating insulated dry lining and appropriate vapour barrier. Using such a system you can leave any sound plaster on the wall or preferably still remove it but omit the dpc cost because the system would be a barrier between the wall and decorative finishes. However the main reason for the suggestion would be that such single skin walls are cold and prone to condensation / mould. The insulated waterproof dry lining provides a warmer surface for decoration.

    The other downside with simple plastering is that for it to prevent dampness / salt degradation through it the standard of workmanship to prepare the substrate and plaster is very high. You as a layperson have no idea if the plasterer is working to specification and the plasterer will want paying whilst the plaster is still damp. If the plaster fails to dry down or degrades at some point in the future the plasterer will blame anyone but themselves. The plaster introduces a lot of water into the wall / building when the aim is to dry it down not make it wetter so decoration is delayed.

    If you are using this area as an anex to the kitchen it will be an area prone to condensation and hence a hard dense cement plaster will be prone to condensation compared to such an insulated lining system.

    With the insulated waterproof dry lining system you could fit the system yourself and just have the insulated plasterboard skimmed over at minimal cost. You also have more confidence in the system because you can see a physical barrier of membrane being applied rather hoping the plasterer has worked to spec.

    Just a thought - if you require further info on these systems or plastering specs please send me a private mail. Kindest regards, David Aldred Independent damp and timber surveyor.
  • andy69_2
    andy69_2 Posts: 1,998 Forumite
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    Best thing for you to do imo is to knock your plaster off yourself, get your damp course done, plaster over it with a mix that allows the bricks to breathe, the plasterer will know! its got more sand in i think, its not as shiny finish but will be worth it! and obviously get him to use a concrete render with waterproofer in it and then skim over the top!
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