Seized stopcock into lead pipe

EliteHeat

skiTTish wrote: »

We have the same problem but someone told us as we have a water meter ,the water can be turned off there instead ? dunno how true it is tho ?

Yes it can. Usually the stopcock is plastic and is pretty much guaranteed to work.

timmmers

IF it's stiff and getting enough turning force onto it after warming it and WD40 is the problem....try a large spanner at 90 degrees to the tap, twist it in the direction that turns the tap the right way, when the jaws lodge against the tap where your fingers would normally go... grip the spanner handle with Molegrips to give leverage and slowly work it free. The extra leverage should do it...but be careful if it slips off not to graze your hand...a towel on the tap can help with grip.

A little light tapping with a small hammer on the tap at 90 degrees to the tap can help loosen it up too. Threads all have a small tolerance and gentle taps can encourage them to dislodge any much or corrosion in those tiny gaps.

I did this out of desperation when my combi last went badly wrong...a scary moment I wouldn't wish on anyone,

Replacing a lead pipe the exact same length to copper a while ago cost £300 underfloor ...through 2 rooms that was. My lead water pipe is staying

t

Tippytoes

Thanks for all your replies.

This is what I've tried so far:

I've sprayed it with WD40, and loosened the gland nut, but it's still seized. If I turn the water off in the street, can I remove the gland nut as the handle is loose on the stem?

If I can take the gland nut off, is it safe to try and close the stopcock with the gland nut out?

27col

It would be better to use penetrating oil rather than WD40. If you can turn off the water in the street then the job is half done. It is likely to be easier to operate the handle if the gland nut is loose or removed. If it proves to still be difficult to turn the handle then have a go at removing the entire inside of the stopcock. Then you can apply oil right to where it is required. A new tap washer should be fitted at this time. If the job was mine, I would be replacing as much of the lead as I could and also the stop valve. It is easy to get compression adaptors to convert from lead to MDPE. It is always a good idea to operate any isolating valve and stopcocks once a year just to keep them operative. The last thing you need in an emergency is to find that the isolators are too stiff to operate.