Yet more painting ceilings

Soubrette

Hi Guys

You gave such good advice last time that I was wondering if you could give some more advice.

I have a hall and bathroom ceiling which have both been replastered. Both are drying out nicely but I'm assuming that I would have to paint the bathroom ceiling in a different paint to the hall?

Also the plasterer mentioned something to my husband (which he promptly forgot the name of) about sealing the ceiling to make it waterproof, my husband thinks it's some kind of silicone sealant with a special name - any idea what this might be?

Final question, thanks to everyone who helped last time I did a lovely job on my bedroom ceiling paintwise but there is some wallpaper glue marks where someone appears to have been wrestling with the wallpaper in the corners - can I just paint on top of this or should I lightly sand it off and then paint?

Thanks

Sou

ormus

ive never used any different emulsion in a bathroom compared to the rest of the house.
re sealing. just use a 3-1 solution of water/pva on new plaster. before painting, if you really must.
i never do that unless im wallpapering over the top. or there is a real problem with the plaster.
generally i just use a 50/50 emulsion mix first.

yes you can just paint over the glue marks.

Soubrette

ormus wrote: »

ive never used any different emulsion in a bathroom compared to the rest of the house.
re sealing. just use a 3-1 solution of water/pva on new plaster. before painting, if you really must.
i never do that unless im wallpapering over the top. or there is a real problem with the plaster.
generally i just use a 50/50 emulsion mix first.

yes you can just paint over the glue marks.

Thanks ormus - I don't want to use pva/water, I'm just going to use the emulsion mix which I used on the bedroom ceiling and (apart from the glue marks) it looks fantastic.

The way OH described it - it was more like something to seal around the edges of the ceiling where it meets the wall, rather than sealing the whole plaster ceiling.

Sou

misgrace

andrew-b wrote: »

For our bathroom ceiling i did a couple of watered down coats of Dulux Trade Supermatt (alternatively use Gliddens Contract Matt). This paint is specifically designed for plaster that is still drying out. Then i did another two coats of Dulux Bathroom+ paint which has anti-mould properties. For the hall you could just use normal Dulux with your choice of finish.

However you do it i would avoid PVA - especially in the bathroom. PVA redissolves when it gets wet (why it's so good for children using as glue!) and what happens is the paint bonds with the PVA..not the plaster. So if moisture is present the paint may start peeling off.

With the paint you want to avoid any paint for the first coat or two that has a vinyl content. Standard Dulux Matt from the DIY sheds is actually Vinyl Matt so has vinyl content. I've got away with using it watered down myself for the first coats but it's not what professional decorators would use. dulux supermatt or gliddens contract matt are more expensive but it's better to only have to do it once than have to sort it out after when the paint comes peeling off again!

Happy Painting!

Andy

100% correct there Andrew I was going to sugest the same myself, but you beat me to it.

Never use PVA on plastered wall, like Andrew says, use diluted contract (non vinyl) on your bare plaster, infact I would do 2 mistcoats, it doesnt matter if you think its too thin, as long as you add at least 25-30% water, then you can apply your bathroom or silk or softsheen paint.
never put bathroom/kitchen paint, or Silk for that matter straight on new plaster walls, always use a mistcoat of contract or trade Mat.

danmurray

I have to strongly agree with Andrew and Misgrace - never use PVA on bare plaster! Nor paste - unless you're actually wallpapering!

Crown have "covermatt", Macpherson have "Eclipse", Leyland have "Super Leytex", Johnstone's have "Jonmat" and Dulux have "Supermatt" - all of these products are designed to go on bare plastered walls. The machperson can even go on plaster that hasn't yet dried. These products don't require you to water them down but you can by about 10-15% if you want.

Otherwise, a normal matt will suffice but you must water it down by 25-30% as Misgrace rightly said. And to reiterate that Misgrace stated, do not apply any K&B/Silk/Softsheen/Midsheen on to bare plastered walls. The reason being is the polyurethane that's in these paints prevent it from soaking into the plaster and so they such sit on top --- waiting... to peel off, or cause some sort of hassle.

It's not advisable to use normal matt as a finish coat in your bathroom - reason being, it's not condensation resistant! A softsheen or midsheen, or indeed, if your retail minded, a "Bathroom" paint, is the best finish coat.