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Waxing car

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13

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  • artha
    artha Posts: 5,254 Forumite
    If you are starting from scratch on a car it seems from the above that general practice is to wash then polish then wax. When deciding it's time to rewax is it then only necessary to wash and then rewax or does the polish stage occur everytime?
    Awaiting a new sig
  • sandford6016
    sandford6016 Posts: 162 Forumite
    Poorboys products are my favourite! Cheapedt are on Ebay, imported from the USA. To get an amazing finish use their 'scratch and swirl remover', then their 'paint sealant' and then their 'Nattys paste wax'. If you have a dark coloured car, mine is black, natty's blue paste is amazing!
    :T If you don't have anything sensible to say, don't say it! :T
  • 10JH
    10JH Posts: 287 Forumite
    I like the Meguiars NXT range. It does a good job, doesn't cost too much and doesn't leave lots of annoying white powder all over the place.

    Plus it comes with a pad to put it on with too!
  • ventureuk
    ventureuk Posts: 354 Forumite
    I've tried Autoglym, TurtleWax Ice and Poorboys

    All have their pros and cons but non beat this.

    http://www.meguiars.co.uk/product/218

    Put it on a nice clean car with a couple of new/clean microfibre cloths which cost a few pence from Wilkinsons.

    It leaves no white marks, takes no effort to apply and actually does what the videos on the net show.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePAufvfjVe8&feature=channel

    It's better on dark coloured cars.
  • artha
    artha Posts: 5,254 Forumite
    artha wrote: »
    If you are starting from scratch on a car it seems from the above that general practice is to wash then polish then wax. When deciding it's time to rewax is it then only necessary to wash and then rewax or does the polish stage occur everytime?

    sorry for the bump but anyone got any thoughts on my question please?
    Whilst I'm posting I thought about another question relating to either new paint from a respray (my situation) or a brand new car. Is the superesin polish stage (or whatever equivalentyou use) really necessary as there is no road film/oxidation to remove
    Awaiting a new sig
  • Niche
    Niche Posts: 242 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture
    edited 22 June 2010 at 11:02AM
    artha wrote: »
    sorry for the bump but anyone got any thoughts on my question please?
    Whilst I'm posting I thought about another question relating to either new paint from a respray (my situation) or a brand new car. Is the superesin polish stage (or whatever equivalentyou use) really necessary as there is no road film/oxidation to remove

    IMHO, If your car has just been resprayed I would leave it 2-3 months to let the new paint breathe.

    After the wait I would Claybar the bodywork to get the overspray off the paint , how too guide - http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=4829 this will get rid of all the oxidation and make the paint feel like glass.

    Then use SRP (super resin polish) this contains fillers so will hide the swirl marks and will clean/polish the paint, it wont add any protection though.

    After you have used the SRP get a good quality wax collinite 976 or 845 are excellent waxes and last an age, make sure you put it on thinly as it can be a nightmare to get off if applied too thick.

    The collinite will protect a long time but top it up every 3-4 months.

    The best website is http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/index.php

    But be prepared to spend a fortune as it can get quite addictive:D
  • Strider590
    Strider590 Posts: 11,874 Forumite
    I use Mer car polish, anyone with carbon fibre panels will swear by it... But the real beauty is it goes on wet, so you don't have to wait for the car to dry before using it.
    “I may not agree with you, but I will defend to the death your right to make an a** of yourself.”

    <><><><><><><><><<><><><><><><><><><><><><> Don't forget to like and subscribe \/ \/ \/
  • artha
    artha Posts: 5,254 Forumite
    Niche wrote: »
    IMHO, If your car has just been resprayed I would leave it 2-3 months to let the new paint breathe
    .
    Actually it's not a full respray: just the bonnet, fade out across the wings and the roof. The clear coat on the car (9 years old - 6 years with us) was starting to delaminate badly after this bad winter.
    I did think that I should leave it only a few weeks, particularly in the hot weather at this time of year, to allow the paint to fully harden.
    After the wait I would Claybar the bodywork to get the overspray off the paint , how too guide - http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=4829 this will get rid of all the oxidation and make the paint feel like glass.
    There may be some over-spray to get rid off but I would be surprised if there was any oxidation apart from on the old paint on the car. There may however be trapped dirt pick up on the new "soft" paint. I may get some clay bar just to try it out but.....
    Then use SRP (super resin polish) this contains fillers so will hide the swirl marks and will clean/polish the paint, it wont add any protection though.
    ........I wonder if the super resin polish may be sufficient for my purposes? (see later)
    After you have used the SRP get a good quality wax collinite 976 or 845 are excellent waxes and last an age, make sure you put it on thinly as it can be a nightmare to get off if applied too thick.
    I'l get some wax

    The best website is http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/index.php

    But be prepared to spend a fortune as it can get quite addictive:D

    Had a look at the site but I think that it's main afficianados seem to be fanatics at car appearance. As you say it could get quite addictive but in my case I think it would be a bit of overkill as I'm not going to be able to turn a sows ear into a silk purse- just want to keep the car looking ok for a few more years without too much effort. I'm also just wanting to gain some experience in using these products on the oldish (9 &16 years) cars we have which have not had much more than a wash&go for most of their lives.

    However, now I'm recently retired I'm intending buying a new/nearly new car (possibly two) in the next year or so and want to keep it/them in as good a condition as possible. As I (theoretically)have more time in retirement perhaps I will get the bug!
    .
    Awaiting a new sig
  • artha
    artha Posts: 5,254 Forumite
    Been looking at the range of Autoglym products in my local cheapo sell everything department store(generally always much cheaper than Halfords/similar outlets or online specialists).

    Bit confused by the difference in some of the polishing products. For instance: super resin polish and ultra deep shine. They both seem to be used at the stage in between washing and waxing.

    Are they really different products for that stage? Where would you use one instead of the other or do some people use both as a two stage polish before waxing?
    Awaiting a new sig
  • artha wrote: »
    Been looking at the range of Autoglym products in my local cheapo sell everything department store(generally always much cheaper than Halfords/similar outlets or online specialists).

    Bit confused by the difference in some of the polishing products. For instance: super resin polish and ultra deep shine. They both seem to be used at the stage in between washing and waxing.

    Are they really different products for that stage? Where would you use one instead of the other or do some people use both as a two stage polish before waxing?

    The Ultra Deep Shine is for new dark coloured cars and as far as I can tell doesnt have much of a cutting agent in it.

    Super Resin is the one that will fill swirls and cut slightly and I think is suited to all colours not just dark ones like the Ultra Deep Shine.
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