Urgent Plastering Problem - Damsel in distress - advice please

Pauline_P_2

I have had my bathroom ceiling recently re-plastered and the Plasterer removed an old pine, tongue-in-groove ceiling (as I requested) and added a new plasterboard ceiling, which he plastered over in its place.

It looks great BUT I'm now informed by Building Control there should have been a visquine (spelling?) vapour barrier added between the joists and the new plasterboard. Apparently BC insist on this on all new build kitchen or bathroom/wc/utility rooms.

My concern is two-fold. The House is partly owned by Co-ownership so if they won't be happy and more importantly due to a medical condition, I have (long) baths almost nightly to help me sleep and so it's common for the room to be steamy - btw I already have an extractor fan and ventilate the room regularly by opening the window during and after a bath and that helps.

So what do I do about the lack of vapour barrier?

The loft is insulated and any moisture that gets up there may compromise the existing insulation or cause damp problems - when I bought the house I had to get the loft treated for a woodworm problem.

Googling only confuses things further as there seems to be different opinions on barriers. Some say using a moisture-resistant ‘bathroom’ paint on the ceiling will act as a vapour barrier and warn about potential condensation problems with visquine barriers, others say it’s a must have.

I’m confused and frustrated that I will have to pay for the existing ceiling to be removed and a re-plastered and I certainly don’t want to do that if there is a potential for sweating/condensation caused by fitting a proper barrier.

totalsolutions

I will ask my brother when he comes home.

leveller2911

Hi Pauline, just read your post, you mention how BC insist on all "new" build bathrooms and kitchens, as yours isn't a "new" build (existing bathroom)im not sure it needs to conform.Im a joiner so its not my line,but im sure someone will post some good advice.

I know new regulations came in regarding electrics on kitchens and bathrooms but havent heard of the problem your having.

PS theres no link between woodworm and damp/moisture.From my experience ive worked on properties dating back to the 15th century and the only big problem with moisture in bathrooms is lack of ventilation,provided you have an extractor and the walls/ceiling are painted with oil based paint you would be fine.

Officer_Dibble

Building control insist on plenty of things in new build that weren't necessary even a few years ago, and similarly aren't necessary now. It keeps them in work. Don't worry about it.

If you've already had damp problems in your loft, it might be worth checking that the ventilation's OK up there though...

totalsolutions

As mentioned above its not a "new" build. Don't worry about it.

Pauline_P_2

Thanks for the replies.

Although it's not a new build it's a modification to an existing property and so comes under the Regulations I'm informed. As a Housing Association (HA) own a % of my property every time I increase the equity I own the HA come out, re-value the house and inspect any work done - which can increase the valuation. They expect all work to be carried out in accordance with Building Control and ask for evidence of this.

However that's not my BIG concern.
The daily and long-lasting hot baths I take generate a fair amount of steam and even with the window slightly ajar and the extractor on, some steam/vapour must be getting into the loft - potentially causing damp/condensation problems there and ruining the effectiveness of my insulation.

vaio

I thought foil backed plasterboard was standard in bathrooms, the foil acts as a vapout barrier. Did your plasterer use this?

Pauline_P_2

"I thought foil backed plasterboard was standard in bathrooms, the foil acts as a vapout barrier. Did your plasterer use this?"

No he didn't but interestingly when I contacted the Trade Federation afterwards they did say that moisture resisting boards can't simply be skimmed over and are designed to be tiled over so should only be normally used where there is risk of direct contact from water, such as shower compartments, and splashbacks to sinks and baths, inc. kichen sinks.

Although a caveat was added to contact the Manufacturer of the specific Plasterboard.

noodle2_2

Hi,
Im a plasterer in Derby, just a quick one to say there is no need for the vapour barrier if its not a new build (as mentioned by many people above) and I really would not worry about the moisture getting in to the loft, your plasterer would have taped all the joints in the plasterboard and applied two coats of finish plaster which along with a good kitchen and bathroom paint would stop any moisture getting through to your loft.

Even standard plasterboard has very good insulation properties and your new ceiling will certainly be providing a much better vapour block than your old tongue and groove.

Also did the plasterer completely remove the tongue and groove along with whatever was underneath? (persume there would have been some existing plasterboard there somewhere) He may have just screwed directly through which will give you an even thicker and much more protection.

Unless something else is specifically asked for standard plasterboard is more than sufficient when reboarding any ceiling with a loft above, usually foil backed boards or something denser is used when for example you have a flat roof above to keep heat in more efficiently.

Hope that helps!

Cheers

macman

I don't understand how/why Building Control got involved. A new ceiling is not structural and it's not a modification, it should not concern them. On that basis, putting up a shelf or changing your wallpaper would require inspection!

owls

Vapour check plasterboard should be used, the reason being it acts as an additional barrier against any condensation forming on the under side of the plasterboard if there is a roof void above, basically warm air rises so if it hits the cold air from above it stop any condensation.

its nothing to do with moisture, dont know were noddle did his apprenteship
but im glad he dont work for me.if it was knew build they would not be needed as to conform with building regs it would need a minimum thickness of 75mm kingspan foil insulation and so standard 12.5mm board could be used.