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Back boiler dilema
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we did the same some 3 yrs ago now. got rid of the baxi and installed a new combi.
gas bills are down by 30% ish. and the CH is better.
beware that you can only change the fire front on some baxi models.
and they are very expensive. approx the same as a new combi boiler!
ps.
my new gas fire cost just 99 quid.
So you had you back boiler removed, new boiler placed somewhere else and used the existing flue from the back boiler for a new gas fire? Food for thought if removing that chimney breast thingie is a problem or going to cost a fortune!0 -
HI
The pilot on a back boiler is so far back a child would have trouble finding it. There would be a greater risk of it burning it's fingers on the fire front, if it were in use.
I would suspect the council are more concerned with carbon monoxide poisoning, and updating ageing systems
Back boilers are not available in condensing versions so it's of no use to anyone as you are obliged to fit condensing boilers (unless you can meet a points list exemption )
Flue liners are to be replaced each time an appliance is replaced due to their limited life span.
To the OP .
As you are redecorating, and considering removing the chimney, then I would say 'have it out.'
Corgi Guy.Ask to see CIPHE (Chartered Institute of Plumbing & Heating Engineering)0 -
Yes its a Baxi Bermuda 552.
The extra space gained from removing it and removing the chimney breast would be nice but I usually go for a more practical approach than purely for looks.
A word of warning if you're thinking of removing the chimney breast.
You will need to remove the chimney breast all the way up the house including the stack itself as removing just one floor will leave tonns of stonework resting on nothing. Or get RSJ's (steelwork) to hold it up.
Don't listen to any builder that tells you otherwise. It'll be costly and you'll need to get building control involved.
Edit: Ah I see further down you are going to do it properly.0 -
I understand this, but what I was told was that the pilot light in a back boiler is an open flame (a child could potentially put their hand and touch it) and therefore the council HAD to remove them all.
The danger arises from the fact that they are 'open flue'.
This means that the gas burner is effectively burning in the room and the only reason you don't die is that a draught up the flue takes the gases up the flue and fresh air flows into the room through airvents.
If the flue or airvent gets blocked then the room just fills up with combustion gases and everyone dies from carbon monoxide poisoning.
Modern boilers are sealed from the room/house and both the air in and gases out are dealt with by the flue. If correctly installed and maintained the carbon monoxide should never be able to get in the house.0 -
Quote:(and the energy efficiency of combi/condenser boilers aren't what they claim.)
Our condensing boiler was serviced this morning. It is not a combi, but a straight condensing boiler. The engineer gave me the computer print out and it says that the efficiency is 97%. Unless a combi/ condesing boiler is a lot worse that this I would say that the high 90's is a pretty good efficiency. If your Baxi is an old one, I cannot see that it's efficiency can be anything like that of modern condensing boilers.I can afford anything that I want.
Just so long as I don't want much.0 -
I think Baxi's are around 60% efficient.0
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Hi we had a back boiler, we were undecided about what to do (if it isn't broken don't fix it blah blah blah) but when the plumber came to service it, he condemned it instead and turned the gas off. It was 25 years old - pretty good eh?!
So anyway, we had a shiny new condenser boiler fitted in the downstairs cloakroom, and the radiators have been properly hot for the first time ever. Bliss!
We're actually househunting at the moment, found a nice property and were going to view it but saw that despite all the money they'd spent on aesthetics, paint, new kitchen and bathroom etc, the house still had an old back boiler which made me wonder if they'd bothered with other stuff like maintaining the gutters etc. We may still view but I will be making a detailed inspection!0 -
A word of warning if you're thinking of removing the chimney breast.
You will need to remove the chimney breast all the way up the house including the stack itself as removing just one floor will leave tonns of stonework resting on nothing. Or get RSJ's (steelwork) to hold it up.
Don't listen to any builder that tells you otherwise. It'll be costly and you'll need to get building control involved.
Edit: Ah I see further down you are going to do it properly.
Hi... yes we absolutley want to do it properly and had thought about the logistics as far as our understanding of structural aspects go... i.e. whole stack removed, new ceilings and floors where needed etc.
So my next question is... you mentioned getting building control involved. Where's the best place to start? Who to contact? How to go about arranging this?
We were thinking that we may have the boiler sorted then a month or so after get the chimney stack sorted... will this be a problem, do we have to do it in one go?
Thanks for all advice and opinions. It's really helped our decision.0 -
Hi... yes we absolutley want to do it properly and had thought about the logistics as far as our understanding of structural aspects go... i.e. whole stack removed, new ceilings and floors where needed etc.
So my next question is... you mentioned getting building control involved. Where's the best place to start? Who to contact? How to go about arranging this?
We were thinking that we may have the boiler sorted then a month or so after get the chimney stack sorted... will this be a problem, do we have to do it in one go?
Thanks for all advice and opinions. It's really helped our decision.
Hi there, been reading your wee story. As people said before, a new condensing boiler will be 90+% efficient, compared to average of 65% baxi bermuda back boilers (thats when new, I'd imagine not as efficient many years on) if you go for a combi you'll also save more money by not heating up a large cylinder of water that you may not use, which is great if you dont mind a bath taking slightly longer to run.
As for boiler/ chimney issue, as long as the boiler is de-commissioned first (drained and pipes capped etc) it shouldnt matter when you do the chimney, as long as the chimney is still doing its job correctly when the boiler is still active.
Hope this helps you and also hope its accurate.
ps, if not got new boiler yet, Id recommend worcester bosch or some glow-worm models. ( in my experience of working on them, some can be pretty nasty ie, ravenheat, keston or ferrolli)0
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