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Few fence post questions please

happyhero
Posts: 1,277 Forumite


Hi I have to build a fence and I want to do the first few posts slightly different to the rest.
The first post needs to fit to the corner of my extension, can anyone tell me the best way (I am using 4" x 4" posts)?
I thought of coach bolts or studding but not sure how to fix the studs to the wall. Which is the best way to fix the post do you think?
The next 3 posts I want to fix into the ground with repair spurs so that the wooden posts can be removed more easily. How far into the ground do they need to go if the fence is 2m high?
I see they have 3 holes on most of the 4' spurs, do I need to use all 3 and wont one be too low ie in the ground if I sink this spur the usual 80cm underground as I read somewhere?
I was thinking of using studding for these spurs ie drilling right through the post but they do sell coach type bolts but these seem to only go into the wooden post 2" and we get strongish winds here so I fancy the studs, what do you think about this?
Finally, in the end I will have to do about 22 posts, probably a silly question but how does this ready-mixed-one-post-bags compare with mixing my own?
Should I just buy and mix my own cement and what mix is best please?
Also I have read somewhere to put the post in and fill around the bottom with gravel to help support it is this right or should the whole hole be full of concrete?
Also how close to the surface/soil do I go with the concrete?
Sorry for all the questions but I have read so many different things now, I am getting more confused now.
Any help appreciated.
The first post needs to fit to the corner of my extension, can anyone tell me the best way (I am using 4" x 4" posts)?
I thought of coach bolts or studding but not sure how to fix the studs to the wall. Which is the best way to fix the post do you think?
The next 3 posts I want to fix into the ground with repair spurs so that the wooden posts can be removed more easily. How far into the ground do they need to go if the fence is 2m high?
I see they have 3 holes on most of the 4' spurs, do I need to use all 3 and wont one be too low ie in the ground if I sink this spur the usual 80cm underground as I read somewhere?
I was thinking of using studding for these spurs ie drilling right through the post but they do sell coach type bolts but these seem to only go into the wooden post 2" and we get strongish winds here so I fancy the studs, what do you think about this?
Finally, in the end I will have to do about 22 posts, probably a silly question but how does this ready-mixed-one-post-bags compare with mixing my own?
Should I just buy and mix my own cement and what mix is best please?
Also I have read somewhere to put the post in and fill around the bottom with gravel to help support it is this right or should the whole hole be full of concrete?
Also how close to the surface/soil do I go with the concrete?
Sorry for all the questions but I have read so many different things now, I am getting more confused now.
Any help appreciated.
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Comments
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i would use thrubolts to attach the post to the wall. (search screwfix).
between 60 and 80 cm depth is ok.
drill through posts and use nut/bolts if possible.
and always make your own mix for large amounts. ready mix bags are expensive.
the mix is 1-2-3. cement/sand/gravel.
always stand the post on stone or gravel at the bottom, it helps with drainage and rot.
the surface question is really a matter of personal preference.
ps have you considered using all concrete posts, or the metal spike bolt system supports for wooden posts?Get some gorm.0 -
Cheers ormus, what about my question of gravel around the bottom of the post, is that what you normaly to help keep it in the place you want and offer stability as you pour the concrete in or do you just pour concrete in with no gravel around the post?
I want to keep to wooden posts as I prefer the look.0 -
Generally I would dig a hole down a two feet put some stones/gravel at the bottom, insert the post then earth back in and compress it to hold the post and then concrete (post mix) the last foot or so. whether this is right or wrong i don't know but its worked for me.
Or altenitively you can buy the metal spikes and hammer them into the ground and fix the post in that way (if you dig out the first foot then you can hide the whole of the metal post in the ground.
With regards to fixing to the wall I have in the past used threaded rod - cut to right length, drill hole in wall , cement in place (or external no more nails!), drill the post through and then fix using a nut and washer.0 -
The main reason for gravel/stones/broken tiles etc at the bottom is to allow drainage.
If the concrete surrounds the bottom of the post, it traps the water in the bottom which will rot the post quickly, if you sit the post on something the water can run down the post and drain out the bottom.
I always dig at least 2 foot, stand the post on hardcore and fill to the top with concrete.0 -
Generally I would dig a hole down a two feet put some stones/gravel at the bottom, insert the post then earth back in and compress it to hold the post and then concrete (post mix) the last foot or so. whether this is right or wrong i don't know but its worked for me.
Or altenitively you can buy the metal spikes and hammer them into the ground and fix the post in that way (if you dig out the first foot then you can hide the whole of the metal post in the ground.
With regards to fixing to the wall I have in the past used threaded rod - cut to right length, drill hole in wall , cement in place (or external no more nails!), drill the post through and then fix using a nut and washer.
Doesnt that defeat the object of using the spikes, which I thought was to prevent the post rotting around the base, as well as making the job easier.
I dont know the answer, just asking, as I am thinking about putting some spikes in myself.0 -
Doesnt that defeat the object of using the spikes, which I thought was to prevent the post rotting around the base, as well as making the job easier..
Maybe it does seem to defeat part of the purpose, but , the metal spikes look ugly if sticking out.
However, It does solve one issue though and thats the main one, in that they obtain a secure footing for the post, without too much hard work. The ground is not disturbed apart from the top portion so there is no need to concrete (which is a right pain if you do need to replace a post). If you do concrete the post always seems to rot a ground level where the water pools on the concrete, unless its angled in one direction.
Of course you could put gravel in the top to bury the top of the metal spike rather than earth and this should also prevent the post from rotting too easily as well.0 -
Personally i would avoid spikes.
They may be an easy diy alternative, but as with most things like that they don't do the job nearly as well as the proper way.
The posts will still rot at the bottom and they will never be as solid as concreted in posts.0 -
If you do concrete the post always seems to rot a ground level where the water pools on the concrete
Ideally, you should put a slightly rounded top on the concrete to prevent this.0 -
Probably another silly question but what about the level of the top of the posts, do you attempt to get them perfectly upright and tops level or do you get them perfectly upright and cut them to level?
And if you cut them after what tool do you use so that you get a nice finish, ie so they don't look DIYish?0 -
I would get them the right height to start with, the end grain of the post sucks in alot of the treatment so it would be a shame to cut it off!
If you do have to cut it, just an ordinary hand saw will be fine, if a little tricky to start with. And remember, if you use flat top posts, put a cap on them to stop water soaking in.
ps. I'm not claiming to be a fencing expert with all this advice, just speaking from experience of building fences for myself, family and customers!0
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