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Wiring in a hob - guidance pls

Hi,

I have a used ceramic electric hob which I'd like to put in my new kitchen. I had the gas hob removed and am trying to save costs by putting electric in rather than have to call a Corgi guy out again to install a new one.

I'm not 100% sure about the wiring though and would be grateful for any guidance. Currently above worksurface level there is a fused spur and this is linked to/operates a double socket below worksurface (into which the old oven and electric ignition part of the hob were plugged). The same fused spur also operates the socket for the extractor hob higher up the wall.

The hob just has bare wire coming out of it (no plug) and is designed to be wired directly into the wall. As I have this fused spur arrangement and the double socket would I be able to put a plug on the hob wire and then plug directly into the socket?

If this is a no-no if I opened up the socket on the wall would I somehow be able to wire the hob directly in to this?

Many thanks for any guidance.

Comments

  • ic
    ic Posts: 3,488 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    Assuming this is a four ring hob, its power requirement will likely be 7kW or more - this is way too much for the normal socket ring. The hob will require its own dedicated supply from the fusebox - 32A or above. By the sounds of it you don't already have this, so you will need an electrician to run in this new supply for you.

    Sorry, but I'm pretty certain that this will be more than the £50 or so a gas man would have charged to connect a hob. If your gas hob had the bayonet connection, then this is something you could connect and does not require a gas man. Search on these forums for more details on this gas connection.
  • Hi

    Gas hobs require a rigid metal connection. Check installation requirements on the new hob. (note; by law even a second hand gas appliance must have the installation/operating instructions supplied with it.) Call your Corgi back you will save the cost on the price of electric compared to gas for cooking.

    Corgi Guy.
    Ask to see CIPHE (Chartered Institute of Plumbing & Heating Engineering)
  • Fire_Fox
    Fire_Fox Posts: 26,026 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    If you are not replacing like with like there is a big question mark over whether the installation would be legal. If it's not legal you may negate your buildings and/ or contents insurance and cause problems when you try to sell the property.
    Declutterbug-in-progress.⭐️⭐️⭐️ ⭐️⭐️
  • BaileyB
    BaileyB Posts: 2,281 Forumite
    Have a look at your consumer unit/ fuse board to see if there is a mcb labeled as cooker. As others have said you may need a new cable from your CU which should be 6mm. Your sockets are only 2.5mm.

    The cost is approx £200-£300 depending where you live. As Part P comes into place as its in the kitchen.

    Might be cheaper to send it back to the shop and buy a gas hob.
  • Mr_Kennedy wrote: »
    The cost is approx £200-£300 depending where you live. As Part P comes into place as its in the kitchen.

    I may suggest a new cooker circuit (presuming existing install has RCD and compliant bonding etc) would cost £100-£150.
    baldly going on...
  • don't touch any cooking appliance un;ess you are legally certified to do so, you will void your insurances and can go to prison if it hurts anyone, don't be an idiot get a professional in
  • don't touch any cooking appliance un;ess you are legally certified to do so, you will void your insurances and can go to prison if it hurts anyone, don't be an idiot get a professional in




    perhaps the idiot remark might be a bit of a knee jerk reaction
    the op is only trying to save money a probably thought this way a good idea at the time ( we all at some point fall into the yes thats a cracking idea ) at some point

    unfortionateley most people dont understand sizes of cable etc. if it works it must be ok yeh

    the best way forword for the op is to get a hob suitable for the gas/electric system that they have

    used appliances imho are not really a good idea as the normal run of the mill end user as no way of verify safety

    i do however totally agree with you that the proffesional route is the way to go
  • Pssst
    Pssst Posts: 4,803 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts
    Just put a plug on it.
  • And use a nail as a fuse Pssst ? Don't be so blood y silly !!

    13 Amps x 230 Volts is no where near enough power to run a hob fully...
  • Hi

    Thanks everyone for the helpful replies. It seems like the gas hob will be the cheaper option although I will have a look at the consumer board to see if there is a separate "cooker" supply - though not holding my breath...! Although the cable which I can see running into the socket does look thick-ish (I can see it as for some reason a bit of it is poking out above the plaster surface whereas the rest is buried - no idea why!)

    Jonnysparks, thank you - you are spot on, it did seem like a cracking money saving idea!! I don't understand the technical stuff about cables etc but would not have taken the risk of putting a plug on it without seeking some advice first about whether it would be dangerous which was why I posted. It is indeed worryingly easy to think yes it works okay without a full appreciation of what the risks might be.

    I did have an electrican round some time ago to quote for doing different electrical bits and bobs and at the time he said something about there not being RCD protection which is required by new laws so he said it would be a more expensive job. So gas hob it is methinks!!

    Thanks as ever for the brilliant expert advice shared here.
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