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Radiator not getting hot
JeNjEn_3
Posts: 87 Forumite
The radiator in my hall only gets lukewarm despite the heating being on 30 degrees.
I have tried a few things like bleeding it etc but with no success. I think the problem may lay in faulty thermostatic valve.
I would really like to get rid of this completely - none of my other radiators have these valves.... but I have no idea how to go about it... does it mean draining the whole system or is there a quick way of doing it?
I have seen those cans of freeze your pipe stuff - could that be an answer?
Any help would really be appreciated.
I have tried a few things like bleeding it etc but with no success. I think the problem may lay in faulty thermostatic valve.
I would really like to get rid of this completely - none of my other radiators have these valves.... but I have no idea how to go about it... does it mean draining the whole system or is there a quick way of doing it?
I have seen those cans of freeze your pipe stuff - could that be an answer?
Any help would really be appreciated.
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Comments
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I have automatic valves on my radiators and I find that the needle sticks occasionally but it's really easy to free.
Just remove the thermostatic valve and you should see a thick 'needle' sticking out.
Grab it with pliars and push it in and out to free it.
Put the radiator valve back on.
Hope that works.
Replacing the valve will probably involve draining the system and then replacing the fittings... not a difficult job but a bit messy. A job for the summer when the heating is off.
(Just a thought... make sure that the valve on the other end of the radiator is fully open to allow maximum water flow)I'm Glad to be here... At my age I'm glad to be anywhere!!
I'm not losing my hair... I'm getting more head!!0 -
Thanks for this Garry the pin is free and moving ok - the valve at the other end is open fully - does this mean that I need to drain the system or is there anything else I could try0
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JeNjEn wrote:Thanks for this Garry the pin is free and moving ok - the valve at the other end is open fully - does this mean that I need to drain the system or is there anything else I could try
There could be a airlock in the pipes, shut off the other rads to send the heat to that faulty 1, when it get's hot, go round and there back on the others.
You only need to turn off on side of the rads, wheel head, dont turn the lockshield end, as you will then have to balance the system again.0 -
plumb1 wrote:There could be a airlock in the pipes, shut off the other rads to send the heat to that faulty 1, when it get's hot, go round and there back on the others.
You only need to turn off on side of the rads, wheel head, dont turn the lockshield end, as you will then have to balance the system again.
This worked with ours too, as well as turning the other radiators off, whack your thermostat to the highest. Once your cold radiator gets it's heat back, leave it for a 30 mins before turning the thermostat back down (if you haven't already melted!)0 -
You may be able to speed up your pump too, till it clears. There is usually a small round switch on the pump.0
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have you tried bleeding it? letting the air outMFWB
Mortgage when started: £232,000
Current mortgage Sept 2024: £232,000
Mortgage free day: Sept 2029
Saving: £12k 20250 -
we had a radiator that wouldn't heat up at all and what we had to do was turn off all other radiators then put the heating on so only the one would work. It was cured after that so might work on yours.The curve that can set a lot of things straight is a smile0
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We had this problem with a radiator that had a blocked bleed valve, it was full of air but we couldnt bleed it because the valve was stuck, a plumber came out with a 17 mm spanner loosened the cap on the opposite end and let the air out then closed it again ..... never had a problem since so might be worth a try but be carefull to open it a little bit or you may have a hot flood :-)If it doesnt pay rent sell it.
Mortgage - £2,000
Updated - November 20120
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