Thermostats and Control heating

sva14

OK, but am I correct to state that I need to keep the hall radiator on , so it can trigger the thermostat?.

I still concern that due to the hall been so big and cold, it will take a good while for the radiator to reach say 15C to turn off the thermostat. I basically wanted to get the system without having to warm up the hall?

Is this possible?

sva14

The hall has draught at the moment , wooden door and also it all up to the long hall upstairs. Also as the upstairs radiators are all off bar the main bedroom, no heat will gome to upstairs hall. and my thinking is that if I have hall radiator on it will just all go up.

All radiators hve been bled and work correctly when on.

Please remember I am trying to save gas consumption , with only trying to get the lounge radiator to desire level.

sva14

Oh, I was told to keep all doors closed of rooms where the radiator have been shut off?

Another non trv radiator is the kitchen, so I wonder if could keep this door open, thus heat goes to hall?

sva14

Thanks.

Sorry, should I keep thekitchen door open or not?

Gambler

satish98 wrote: »

Ok, I get it now, however as stated earlier the Hall tends to stay very cold due heat loss upstairs and through doors. So my post was that the hall thermostat never triggers as even when setting to 15 c . But the lounge gets very hot , thus I tend to have to shut the CH down myself manually!

whats is yr view?

Ps listen to cardew advice I am considering turning off the Hall radiator?

Hall radiator does not have TRV

We had a wireless room thermostat fitted in the hall a few months ago and have found that 18C in the hall is usually 20C elsewhere in the house. Have you tried comparing the temp in different pasrts of the house?

We were advised by our heating engineer to leave the rad in the hall on full (setting 5) as it is the lead radiator.

sva14

Primary goal is cost saving. Not too concern about kitchen / hall temp

bryanb

Why not consider re locating the wall thermostat to the Lounge/room normally occupied? If you get a quality one you can have different temp at different times of day/week.Up to 6 changes in 24hrs. The other rooms can be controlled by the TRVs. No need to remove the hall thermostat just disconnect and extend wiring to new position, hopefully just a hole through into lounge?

Rumman

Doesn't switching off radiators completely without TRVs cause balancing problems in homes?

Cardew

satish98 wrote: »

If my CH pump is going to run all the time whilst i control room temp using the radiator TRV's , then the CH is going to be on all the time thus using MORE GAS and costing me more. I want to get to the desired room temp and then shut the pump and then on again when it gets colder again?

People are missing a fundamental point here.

The only reason the CH boiler turns off(i.e. stops firing) is because the water temperature has reached the temperature set on the boiler.(this can be 60C to 85C

Obviously when the wall thermostat temperature is reached the pump stops and the water in the boiler is not circulating so the boiler stops firing.

However even when the pump is running the water in the system(including radiators) will reach the set temperature and the boiler turns off.

With my method I turn off the hall radiator. The pump will keep running but when all the TRVs have reached the set temperature the radiators are shut off and the boiler will stop firing as there is very little water being circulated in the system.

There is nothing wrong with this system and people have reported on here they have old systems without any wall(room) thermostat - In effect I am doing the same by having mine always keeping the pump running. The new regulations say a room thermostat is required but even in some plumbing websites they recommend that you do as I do - turn it to max and forget about it.

Lastly, most modern CH systems have an (ABV Automatic Bypass Pressure Balancing Valve) which allows you to have TRVs fitted to every radiator - my 21 year old system has one.

However, existing older systems will not usually have an AUTOMATIC BYPASS (PRESSURE BALANCING) VALVE, or ABV fitted to the system.These are required to cater for the possibility that the majority of radiators are closed off due to low TRV settings, but high room thermostat settings keeping the boiler cycling. Since the circulating pump would still be running, the pressure in the system would increase.

So if you have any doubt get your system checked.

sva14

bryanb wrote: »

Why not consider re locating the wall thermostat to the Lounge/room normally occupied? If you get a quality one you can have different temp at different times of day/week.Up to 6 changes in 24hrs. The other rooms can be controlled by the TRVs. No need to remove the hall thermostat just disconnect and extend wiring to new position, hopefully just a hole through into lounge?

A good point, but I read in one website that the room thermostat should not be fitted in a room with a TRV. My lounge does have a TRV.