Fitting Downlighters

flashnazia

Hoping some bright sparky can help me with this.

I want to fit some flush ceiling (eyeball) lights.

I have some mains voltage ones (no transformer needed).

Are these more expensive to run than low voltage ones?

Which type is safer?

Also, this may sound dumb, once in are they impossible to pull out again?

davidkj_2

flashnazia wrote: »

Hoping some bright sparky can help me with this.

I want to fit some flush ceiling (eyeball) lights.

I have some mains voltage ones (no transformer needed).

Are these more expensive to run than low voltage ones?

Which type is safer?

Also, this may sound dumb, once in are they impossible to pull out again?

Are you talking about GU10 (also 12V) Downlighters, if you are you will really have to watch the heat build up on the rear and distance from objects on the front, and conform with electrical and building regs. Where are you fitting them ( If in a bathroom a big pain you have to conform to zone regs which have changed slightly due to the17th edition electrical regs). Downlighters are relivtivly simple to fit drill a hole in void ( between floors with proper protection for heat) fit wiring and all done.
The downlighters themselfs will have 2 springs (legs) that grip the plasterboard and pull the fitting into the cieling to remove simply pull streight down one you have isolated the fittings. Both low voltege and mains use the same amount of power
/watts ( Downlighters 50 or 20 watts). But low voltege is reletivly safer ((S.E.L.V)
Safe Extra Low Voltege), Then again most downlighters are double insulated , to finish it depends on the use of the lights.:rotfl::T

27col

It is a good idea to wire them via a small plug and socket in the supply flex so as to be able them to be removed easily in the case of a failure. I don't see why one should be safer than the other. It is always good practice to switch the power off at the consumer unit before handling them. I have some very cheap ones which are made from spun metal. They have warped and do not lie flush to the ceiling. When I replace them in the near future, I will be using cast metal fittings of the same diameter. However, they will be easy to replace, I just have to pull them down and unplug them.

flashnazia

Thanks for the replies.

I am just a bit worried about the heat factor. I don't want the ceiling to catch fire!
I have mains voltage GU10 ones.

I think I will stick to mains voltage ones as I read that low energy bulbs can be fitted to these if required-something that can't be done with low voltage ones.

The reason I am fitting them is because the ceiling was lowered (by cowboys) and I can't find the joists in order to fit a proper light fitting.

It's for the kitchen. There will be about 2-3 cm clearance from the top of the downlighter to the real ceiling above.

I might also have to buy new ones as the cheap ones I bought have some dodgy springs/brackets; it looks as though they will damage the ceiling if I try to remove them again. (The bracket does not spring right back, flush with the side of the light for easy removal.)

amarg

You can always fit fire hoods above them if you have the space, or buy fire rated ones to begin with-

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/diy/electrics/light_fitting/fire_hood.htm

27col

You say that you cannot find the joists to fit a proper light fitting, but you will have to find them in order to fit your eyeball lights. You cannot fit the flush light where there is a joist. It has to be in the gap between two joists, so you will need to locate them before trying to fit the light. You can do this with a bradawl pushed in at about intervals of an inch. Easy enough to fill the small holes afterwards.

Kiran

flashnazia wrote: »

Thanks for the replies.

I am just a bit worried about the heat factor. I don't want the ceiling to catch fire!
I have mains voltage GU10 ones.

I think I will stick to mains voltage ones as I read that low energy bulbs can be fitted to these if required-something that can't be done with low voltage ones.

The reason I am fitting them is because the ceiling was lowered (by cowboys) and I can't find the joists in order to fit a proper light fitting.

It's for the kitchen. There will be about 2-3 cm clearance from the top of the downlighter to the real ceiling above.

I might also have to buy new ones as the cheap ones I bought have some dodgy springs/brackets; it looks as though they will damage the ceiling if I try to remove them again. (The bracket does not spring right back, flush with the side of the light for easy removal.)

Not being able to find the joists doesn't mean you can't attach a "proper" light fitting. You can use cavity wall fixings. These are used to hold up TV brackets and even kitchen wall units.

These are just one type that screwfix sell. Pick the ones suitable to the weight and pre drilled fixing holes for your chosen fixture.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/83846/Fixings/Cavity-Fixings/Mungo-Hollow-Wall-Anchors-M6-x-58mm-x-12-Pack-of-20


Good luck

flashnazia

27col wrote: »

You say that you cannot find the joists to fit a proper light fitting, but you will have to find them in order to fit your eyeball lights. You cannot fit the flush light where there is a joist. It has to be in the gap between two joists, so you will need to locate them before trying to fit the light. You can do this with a bradawl pushed in at about intervals of an inch. Easy enough to fill the small holes afterwards.

I tried shoving a screwdriver in at intervals but could not find any battens or joists. I just don't know what the bloody cowboy did. All I do know is that there is room to fit them where the current ceiling rose is.

And cavity wall fixings? Is it really safe to use this in plasterboard ceiling? (especially in light of what I said above) I don't want the light falling on me head while I'm cooking!

hewhoisnotintheknow

less to go wrong with the 240 volts one, if the transformer breaks on the 12v jobbie its a pain

fluffpot

2-3 cms clearance is not enough for heat disappation - most manufacturers suggest 5cms, but check the info with yours to see.

flashnazia

Anyone got any tips on alternative lights I could use on a weak ceiling where I can't find the joists?

( I don't want to be cutting the ceiling and adding battens, that will be a right pain in the ...!)