Iroko or Oak Wood Kitchen Worktop

Having decided to go for the wood worktop (foolish some may say) I have narrowed choice down to 2, iroko or oak which are both to be supplied by Howdens. This is going with new Howdens gloss units (cream or white Glendevon). Floor will be prob wood vinyl tile (Kardean) or if I have run out of money, laminate. Can anyone give any assistance as to why to choose or not to choose iroko or oak. Is there difference in wear and care???:huh:
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  • McAzrael
    McAzrael Posts: 917 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    Iroko moves. Oak costs a fortune. Both are durable, and both can be oiled for protection. Both go black in time - iroko via red and oak via grey. What type of oak is it? Are you trying to match any joinery?

    Remember the wooden worktops in the chemistry lab at school? They were probably iroko.
  • All i know is that the oak is as per Howdens supply!! Is to go with white gloss kitchen units with modern handles. Thought the iroko would make a statement and would be warm in colour. I read today that it is very durable .....
  • Bought mine from here cheaper than Howdens and good quality

    http://www.real-wood-flooring.com/solid-wood-worktops.html
    AKA: PC

    ...
    Rest in Peace Fred the Maddest Muppet in Heaven :heart:
  • I had iroko worktops in my last kitchen, they went a lovely deep chestnut colour. I found them easy to keep looking good with a light sand and a couple of coats of oil every 6 months, need a bit more maintainence in the first year or so as the wood can be thirsty.

    It's really down to personal choice which wood you go for, does the supplier/fitter have any clients who can show you the worktops they have lived with for a year or two so you can get an idea of the colours they develop?
  • Thanks for that, unfortunately they do not know of anyone with this iroko top. I think compared with the oak the iroko with white gloss will look modern with a warm feel. I do like the oak but notenough contrast with the white. Any further comments to before going ahead. My other option is the cream gloss units but think that would be better with the oak then matching with oak table etc I appreciate that all wood takes looking after and I would say that after 4 years of laminate I have no burns or scratches as I always use boards and always wipe dry surfaces after wiping down. What do you use to wipe clean wood????
  • hethmar
    hethmar Posts: 10,678 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Combo Breaker Car Insurance Carver!
    I have american oak in mine - rather thick ones. I have to say its a bit of a pain to keep oiling them. Id been using danish oil but Im told thats poisonous!! So I went to Tung Oil which doesnt seem to soak in so now Im on another one.

    However, they do look fantastic when they are done - everyone comments on them.

    Can anyone recommend the best oil for worktops please.
  • kerryurz - we went with iroko as it gave more flexibility with colour schemes as my ex is a joiner and used our kitchen as a showcase for his work. He used part of the kitchen to change cupboard fronts etc. to demonstrate combinations to clients.

    I would say the best thing to do is go with the wood you love the most as you are going to live with it for the next few years. Also go with the thickest worktop you can in your budget, it makes the whole kitchen look more expensive.

    As for cleaning, keep on top of the oiling so it doesn't go dry and just use a normal mild detergent. We used linseed oil to treat the wood which is safe around food.

    hethmar - I'm not sure if you can put linseed straight on top of the other oils you have used, a joiner should be able to advise you on that.
  • hethmar
    hethmar Posts: 10,678 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Combo Breaker Car Insurance Carver!
    Hi, we decided on the oak because we felt that was more flexible to match with our colours - our units are hand made and painted and we thought it we wanted to repaint them in the years to come, the oak would be more adaptable? The chap who made ours was a good joiner and I asked him to put grooves in next to the butler sink in the work top and to put an edging of grooves round the worktop so it looks more like furniture than just a plain edge.

    Ours is very thick - we had originally thought of granite but got a £5k quote for it (its a big kitchen) and also the joiner told us that he didnt like granite as it scratched - so we went with oak. It does look beautiful when its been oiled, I mean it GLOWS.

    Thanks for info re linseed. I was happily using danish oil until the chap in the local hardware shop said I hope thats not for worktops :eek: He also told me not to use washing up liquid water to wipe the tops down as that has grease in it and will make the oil patchy
  • Thanks for your comments. I actually think the iroko looks more expensive and richer and agree that so many colours go with it. It is interesting you say linseed oil as in Howdens they have recommended Danish oil. From comments here and other threads this seems an oil to be avoided??! Incidentallly, I had a quote for quartz (dont want granite as not that keen and expensive) The quartz came out at 2K as opposed to 1K for the wood.
  • Wooden woktops without question are the best for any kitchen (and environmentally friendly), when they mark or you spill something its easy to sand and re-oil, in no time at all they look like new. Oak or iroko, both durable with iroko having more natural oil, oak does mark with metal contact (especially aluminium), however, sand and re-oil and its new again. The biggest problem is quality, with so many internet sites which one do I buy, why the price difference? Ring the seller (suggest you buy from a manufacturer) in seconds you'll know who is selling a box and who has a passion about wood. We bought from a northern company who were excellent and would sell short lengths or off cuts as they called them. Remember iroko changes colour to a rich dark brown like the lab tables at school, good luck!
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