Radiator leaking through ceiling light

Lady_K

I cant believe my luck my central heating warranty ran out on 10th December

Ever since the new boiler was put in 2 years ago it had to be topped up every week so I always knew there was a leak somewhere but because it wasnt an obvious one they couldnt do anything about it only if I knew where it was coming from.

I heard the tapping sound of dripping water in the hallway so stood and listened looked up to where it was coming from and there are bubbles of wallpaper coming away from the ceiling. Its still dripping without the heating on although not as fast. Above that area is the bathroom radiator that they moved up a few inches so there is an L shaped bend in the pipe there with big silver nuts on, this is the none thermostat end. There is brown staining down the painted pipe that goes to under the floorboards prob from the leak. I can't see a pool of water but when I touch that L shaped bend my fingers get wet, its leaking from what seems to be both joints or maybe one of them or even the joint in the middle, I can't be sure.

I wanted to try and tighten these up to see if it stops before pulling the floorboards up as its a painted floor. I don't know if I'll be strong enough to but I will have to give it a try as I can't afford a plumber at the moment. I only have a cheapo adjustable screw driver so hope that will be ok. Which way would I have to try and turn them? I heard that you have to turn plumbing joints oposite way to screws is this true?

Do you think turning the radiator to 0 would help? as if it is emptying the radiator with the leak should this cut it off from refilling to leak again?

SplanK

Call them anyway - you reported a suspected leak BEFORE the warranty expired..... 4 or 5 days usualy wont matter much but as you mentioned there was a possible leak then they should really cover it...

EliteHeat

First, you should be aware that a screwdriver, even if adjustable, is no use for tightening up nuts!

Closing the radiator valves will not help as the leak is before the valves.

The nuts tighten clockwise in relation to the front of the nut. This means that when the front of the nut if facing away from you, it tightens in the opposite direction.

Be aware when trying to nip up the nuts that you can make the leak worse. If you use too much pressure, the olive, which provides the seal, may compress too much and result in a larger leak. If at this stage you panic and tighten even more, you will have a problem on your hands.

Lady_K

Thankyou, Sorry I meant adjustable spanner

I am just going to ring them and see what they say before attempting anything, you never know they may just come out, I will tell them it looks like a tightening thing so it should be a pretty quick job which might encourage them to do this.

I did ring them about a week ago because my heating and water had gone off completely and after I had filled up the system it still wouldnt start it had got that empty and they told me how to do the restart button. Before when its needed topping up I have done it just before it has totally gone off.

I have looked again at it. It is just a small corner silver joint not as long as I had thought simple bolt on the pipe coming up and bolt on the radiator pipe then the bit with the plastic pointy thing on top. the bolt on the rad side doesnt seem to be leaking as I put toilet paper around that all night and its dry. So it is either the nut going to the floor or the nut under the white tip but thats fixed on tight over it if it is.

Browntoa

do you mean like this




the nut underneath is where it is leaking ??

can be a cheap valve and its leaking from the top end , the plastic cap pulls off and you should be able to see if its leaking there

Browntoa

video here

http://www.homeserve.com/videos/tips-and-tricks/how-to-fix-a-leaking-radiator-valve

Browntoa

replacing a valve here

http://www.homeserve.com/videos/central-heating/how-to-replace-a-damaged-radiator-valve

not for the novice though

Lady_K

Thankyou, yes its like that but silver and I don't think its the left rad nut the thin strip of toilet paper around it stays dry I tried that on its own first. Now I'm testing the upper bit by putting toilet paper around above the pipe bolt and its looking like that is staying dry too so its more likely to be the lower bolt thats causing the leak. The water seems to be running down the inside of the pipe as you look at it the left side if it makes any difference.

Only other thing attached to that pipe and the radiator is something to do with the electric I think, probably an earth thing that wouldnt cause a leak would it? I never had one of those on a radiator before but they put it on when they changed the boiler. I always had them on the toilet mains tap next to the loo. This one goes from one end of the radiator to the other with the green wire.

I wouldnt dare change a valve myself I'm sure I would get into a mess and get in even more problems.

This valve is 2 years old

Browntoa

no earth straps are a requirement on all new installations

could be the olive (sort of washer) not seated right or the nut underneath loose but I would expect them to have tightened before

does turning the rad off at the both ends reduce the leak ??

Lady_K

I dont know how to turn it off both ends I have just turned the thormo to 0 anyway. The leak isnt fast but its still going without my heating on, if I turn that on its much faster. I'm going to watch that video you linked but it wont load for some crazy rason or its taking a while

I had a vaillent boiler for 19 years before having this new one in 2 years ago so I knew from my old one only having to be topped up around every 18 months that it wasn't right my having to top this one up every week from instal and now daily

Browntoa

the white cap on the leaky one should turn it off, if its just a dummy cap you may need to pop it off and turn the spindle in the middle with your wrench

when the heatings on the pressure rises , hence the leak increases , if you can get both valves turned off it MAY reduce the leak (you will still get upwards pressure from the system)