Socket question

madjay

DNF wrote: »

Hi there,

Electrical work is not DIY, you can burn your house down and the insurance will not cover you for your DIY!!! (i'm not even talking about Death...)

every job is different Best is to get an electrical company to come over and quote you for the work, this way you can ask an electrician on site.

However, if you are going to DIY then make sure the main fuse is OFF.
the only 45Amp will be for the oven and all the rest should be 13A but not sockets...you need to get a spur for each one and the oven also needs a 45Amp switch.

Hope this helps

DNF

Some Electrical Work is DIY...You can change Power and lighting accessories you will be covered on insurance.....any thing else you wouldn't. Any way if a house burnt down due to a electical fire it would be because of the lack of the right protection at the BD. But I would say if you have to Ask about it then you need to get A sparky in!

point3

DNF wrote: »

Hi there,

Electrical work is not DIY, you can burn your house down and the insurance will not cover you for your DIY!!! (i'm not even talking about Death...)

every job is different Best is to get an electrical company to come over and quote you for the work, this way you can ask an electrician on site.

However, if you are going to DIY then make sure the main fuse is OFF.
the only 45Amp will be for the oven and all the rest should be 13A but not sockets...you need to get a spur for each one and the oven also needs a 45Amp switch.

Hope this helps

DNF

I could be wrong, but I remember my electrician telling me it was the hob that required the higher current - an electric oven only needs a 13A fuse.

espresso

DNF wrote: »

Hi there,

Electrical work is not DIY, you can burn your house down and the insurance will not cover you for your DIY!!! (i'm not even talking about Death...)

every job is different Best is to get an electrical company to come over and quote you for the work, this way you can ask an electrician on site.

However, if you are going to DIY then make sure the main fuse is OFF.
the only 45Amp will be for the oven and all the rest should be 13A but not sockets...you need to get a spur for each one and the oven also needs a 45Amp switch.

Hope this helps

DNF

Why bother posting when you obviously don't know anything about the subject!

:rolleyes:

ic

Older ovens can draw a lot of power - 4kW is normal. A 13A protected socket/spur can only support 3kW before the fuse blows. Modern energy efficient ovens tend to be around 1kW, so will happily run on a 13A spur.

Hobs on the other hand tend to be in the region of 7kW to 9kW, so need a dedicated heavy-duty supply direct from the fuse box, rated to 32A or 45A.

madjay

point3 wrote: »

I could be wrong, but I remember my electrician telling me it was the hob that required the higher current - an electric oven only needs a 13A fuse.

Depends on the oven some ovens only need a 13amp Supply while others need 45amp....you would need to check the Rating

DNF

Well, minor work is fine but if he is stripping the kitchen and replace the oven spur and switch with a 13A socket... the cable will burn and that is not covered!!

He will also need to understand how the sockets are wired (ring etc.).
in any case i would not do it without onsite advise as every job is different.

Can you pls tell me what i've got wrong???

DNF

espresso wrote: »

Why bother posting when you obviously don't know anything about the subject!

:rolleyes:

Well, minor work is fine but if he is stripping the kitchen and replace the oven spur and switch with a 13A socket... the cable will burn and that is not covered!!

He will also need to understand how the sockets are wired (ring etc.).
in any case i would not do it without onsite advise as every job is different.

Can you pls tell me what i've got wrong???

madjay

DNF wrote: »

Well, minor work is fine but if he is stripping the kitchen and replace the oven spur and switch with a 13A socket... the cable will burn and that is not covered!!

He will also need to understand how the sockets are wired (ring etc.).
in any case i would not do it without onsite advise as every job is different.

Can you pls tell me what i've got wrong???

Wrong....the cable will not burn as it is rated at 45amps, there will not be any protection for the socket outlet at the board.....I said you are allowed to change Like for like only. He is not allowed to do any thing else.

brownbake

Hi - we just retiled our kitchen and replaced the sockets with these

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/45851/Electrical/Switches-Sockets/Stainless-Steel/Volex-Brushed-Stainless/Volex-White-Insert-Kitchen-Starter-Kit

Look pretty good against the new tiles and cheaper than buying individually. Brushed chrome don't show up fingerprints as much as polished chrome.

Just be sure to make sure the cooker switch is off when you remove as my partner found out and blew the socket up and scolded the tile!!!

brownbake

TighterThanTwoCoatsOfPain wrote: »

hmmmmm so if i want to re-tile my kitchen but when i loosen the sockets and it accidentally falls off i need to get an electrician to replace? pfft.

If thats true, its Part P gone ANOTHER step crazier. I would imagine for "new" works its perhaps true, but not a replacement surely?

If the socket accidentally "falls off" if all you are doing is removing the retaining screws I would suggest that it wasn't wired in very well in the first place and could be dangerous anyway