Cooker Electrical supply

MartialArtMan

Should a hard wired supply go:

6mm cable from Fusebox to 45A DP switch (located above the worktop or can it be hidden?) then 2.5mm to what? behind the cooker for connection.

Also what is the supply to the extractor? Should it have an isolation switch can the socket/ isolation switch be hidden?

Also it it okay to have the socket for the fridge behind the fridge?

Thanks for your help I hope I've made myself clear!

bockster

you say cooker, so i assume oven plus hob in one housing, so i assume its rated too high to use 13a socket. therefore you would normally run 6mm from the consumer unit to, yes, a 45a switch, but then do not drop the cable size!! why would you? only if there was a fuse to cater for the smaller cable between the two! if you know what i mean.

any fuse is there to protect the cable, the cable must be large enough for the appliance.


eg cooker is 6kw= approx 26A = too large for 2.5mm cable (max fuse = i think, 20A because its on a radial not a ring!).
therefore 6mm is generally used used) fuse at cosumer then needs to be more than 26A but less than the max rating of 6mm cable and 45A switch. in this case i would use 32A fuse.

remember fuse must melt first, not cable!!

never a problem oversizing cable but beware of under sizing,


hope this all makes sense

MartialArtMan

It does yes thank you and yes its a range cooker; gas hob, electric oven which has to be hard wired.

So from the cooker switch what kind of box should I go to? I presume its not a 3 pin plug socket. And does the switch have to be above the worktop?

Thanks again

bockster

see here http://www.screwfix.com/prods/47806/Electrical/Switches-Sockets/White-Moulded/Crabtree-Range/Crabtree-45A-Cooker-Connection-Unit?cm_re=SEARCHPROMO-_-COOKER%20CONNECT-_-47806
this is how the cable comes out of the wall to the cooker.

is your fridge free standing or built in? i've just found from experiance that theres very little room behind any built in appliances, so bear this in mind.
i believe you can have a socket for the fridge mounted in an adjoining cupboard, or if socket is behind fridge its certainly good practice to have isolator close by above w/t or in adjoining cupboard.

extractor will probably be low power, i've gone into fcu thats just above fly shelf but out of view. if you have no fly shelf, i would have to say good practice might say isolator to side of extractor/chimney.


hope this helps.

ps you are aware of all the part p obstacles in a kitchen?

bockster

some isolators can go inside cupboards but, personally, i would,nt put a 45A switch in a cupboard or below w/t. not sure if there are regs governing this, put mine to side of high level oven but strategically behind microwave:D

MartialArtMan

bockster wrote: »

ps you are aware of all the part p obstacles in a kitchen?

Yeah I'm aware, got an electrician round tomorrow I'm just trying to get a head start on the shopping list and planning.