leaking radiator valve

daveshipway

Hi,

Just to say thanks to everyone for their advice. I think I am going to play it safe and get a plumber in.

Many thanks,

Dave

debbie42

I don't blame you! I only did it myself as the plumber who promised to come, repeatedly, didn't.

Having said that, once I did it myself, I was surprised at how little mess there was. I was fully prepared with mops, towels, buckets etc. and only had a very small dribble come out of the system. This was a combi system too, and the first work I'd done on it since it was changed from the old (non-combi) boiler, so I was expecting a lot more water.

daveshipway

Well I must admit I am slightly tempted to have a go - I have done some *very* basic plumbing before (e.g. putting some new kitchen taps in), but as one poster pointed out, the valve does look very old (strangely the other in the house seem to be in much better nick). I am quite concerned that I am going to have problems taking it apart/getting it off, as it is obviously quite corroded - and I can see myself ending up with some kind of plumbing disaster !

ariba10

It looks the way it does because it has been leaking for a long time probably.

Once it has been repaired and dried out it will look a lot better.

coincounter

Belmont valves are worth repairing as the seals can be repaired/replaced without draining the system down.

• Before starting, loosen the valve by winding the radiator off then on and off again, then leave half on. Wrap an old towel round the valve as it will leak slightly
• Next, you undo the screw on the wheelhead, and lift off the wheelhead.
• Then lift off the thin plate that strengthens the wheelhead connection to the spindle.
• The top lock nut needs taking off – unscrew this in the anticlockwise direction. Clean all the parts as you are taking them off as they will go back on easier.
• Unscrew the spindle in the clockwise direction – you can use the wheelhead to do this. As it comes out it will leak slightly, but should stop (or at least slow down to a tiny dribble) as the spindle lifts out. If it continues to gush, put the spindle back in, screw it up and down a few times and try again.
• Carefully remove the old red o-rings from the spindle using a small screwdriver.
• Clean everything and either put new o-rings on with a bit of silicone/valve grease, or wind 3 turns of PTFE tape round the o-ring grooves and hold in place with the old o-rings.
• Replace the spindle and locknut and wheelhead.

The o-rings are notoriously expensive - ~£1.50 each +P&P. I think they used to be made from butyl, but a modern upgrade would be red silicone. They are Imperial British standard size BS012. These can be bought from RS for ~£6 for 50 +~£5 P&P, but if you just want a few then e-mail me and I can send you some for 50p each plus 50p P&P.

BS012 O-Ring Size Inner diameter x Cross section (mm): 9.25 x 1.78

ormus

i think if i saw one as bad as that, id just replace it.
they are not expensive and easy to change.

also probably quicker than servicing the old one.

cajef

ormus wrote: »

i think if i saw one as bad as that, id just replace it.

Well I hope they have done something with it by now, the thread is eighteen months old.:rotfl:

ormus

yes i know, but other replies were more recent.

plumb1_2

ormus wrote: »

quicker than servicing the old one.

Sorry you are incorrect, the Belmont valves are easy to service/replace O rings and will last years, unlike the modern valves. The info Coincounter has posted is spot-on.

And i hope the OP has dusted and painted his/her skirting boards by now

jonesjw

If you want to stop paying tradesmen through the nose for easy repairs, it's necessary to start somewhere. An easy repair like this is as good a chance as any.