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Single built in oven - 13amp plug
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[Deleted User]
Posts: 7,175 Forumite


Just replaced my single built in oven as the old one had stopped working. 
Anyway... the old one was hard wired to a 30amp switch on the wall which goes to a separate 30amp fuse box but the new one has a 13amp plug. If the new oven was to be hard wired also like the old one I would of done it myself as there was a little junction box on the wall behind the oven. As it had a 13amp plug I thought I'd get a Sparky in as I had no clue as to what had to be done for a safe install.
Sparky arrived this morning, took a look and installed a normal socket on the end of the 30amp cable and then plugged the oven into this and charged £65.
I'm just wondering if this is correct and is it safe still?
He came in an unnamed white van, didn't leave a receipt and wasn't happy about taking a cheque. Although his newspaper advert did say he was Part P registered.

Anyway... the old one was hard wired to a 30amp switch on the wall which goes to a separate 30amp fuse box but the new one has a 13amp plug. If the new oven was to be hard wired also like the old one I would of done it myself as there was a little junction box on the wall behind the oven. As it had a 13amp plug I thought I'd get a Sparky in as I had no clue as to what had to be done for a safe install.
Sparky arrived this morning, took a look and installed a normal socket on the end of the 30amp cable and then plugged the oven into this and charged £65.
I'm just wondering if this is correct and is it safe still?
He came in an unnamed white van, didn't leave a receipt and wasn't happy about taking a cheque. Although his newspaper advert did say he was Part P registered.
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Comments
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Did he not reduce the fuse or circuit breaker at the consumer unit?
I would of thought that he would of issued some form of paperwork as it is in a kitchen with part p etc ?0 -
Perfectly safe - no different to having one of those combined plug and oven switch units. The breaker in the fuse box is there to protect the cable running in the wall up to the socket, the fuse in the plug itself is to protect the cable running into the unit. The earth is there to protect you.0
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I would say it its not good practise but that what you get from a jobbing sparky. the quickest way In, out, get the money!!!0
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If it came with a 13 amp plug then it should have been safe for you to just plug it in to a socket, look it says so on the tin. Plugging it into the existing socket on the old oven box would be quite safe enough as the cableing would be heavy duty flat twin and earth. The only concern would be if you plugged it into an existing ring main socket as the lighter cable could potentialy overheat with a large current for a long time, having said that though it all depends on the wattage of your oven, the supplier would have given you all the info for free if you asked.Give me life, give me love, give me peace on earth.0
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If it came with a 13 amp plug then it should have been safe for you to just plug it in to a socket, look it says so on the tin. Plugging it into the existing socket on the old oven box would be quite safe enough as the cableing would be heavy duty flat twin and earth. The only concern would be if you plugged it into an existing ring main socket as the lighter cable could potentialy overheat with a large current for a long time, having said that though it all depends on the wattage of your oven, the supplier would have given you all the info for free if you asked.
I can see from your post you Know nothing about electrics
the cooker came with a plug and should be plug into a socket outlet on a ring or a radial circuit fed using 2.5mm² cable.... This cable will not over heat because the cooker in question can not be rated more than 3.12Kw... if you had read all the posts I said you do not replace a cooker outlet, which is feed by a 6mm² or 10mm² twin & earth cable with a socket outlet0 -
I'm in the wrong game. I need to be self employed..!0
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Both the oven and hob are fed from the same 30amp fuse in a separate fuse box from the lights, sockets, shower and immersion heater. The Sparky didn't change the fuse at all.
No paperwork was left. I just feel gutted that I didn't research this first as I could of easily of saved the £65 and fitted a socket from wilkinsons myself for a few quid.0 -
I can see from your post you Know nothing about electrics
the cooker came with a plug and should be plug into a socket outlet on a ring or a radial circuit fed using 2.5mm² cable.... This cable will not over heat because the cooker in question can not be rated more than 3.12Kw... if you had read all the posts I said you do not replace a cooker outlet, which is feed by a 6mm² or 10mm² twin & earth cable with a socket outlet
Neither did I, some cooker boxes do have a 13 amp socket on them already and would be the obvious choice.
Sorry if you missunderstood.Give me life, give me love, give me peace on earth.0
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