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plastic push fit fittings versus compression fittings

mondeo_2
Posts: 11 Forumite
Can push fit be used instead of compression fittings on copper pipe or do there have to be used on plastic pipe only ?? If they can, which type are best for tasks such as fittting kitchen sinks, bathroom taps, etc Any advice greatly appreciated
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Comments
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I've used push fit at home a number of times and found them to be satisfactory so far, mostly under the kitchen sink, cold water, mains and gravity tank pressure. Not tried with hot water. Fine on copper pipe. They are easy to fit and can still be uncoupled quite easily if necessary. Personally I still prefer compression or soldered fittings. Always make sure the pipes are free of rough bits or "burrs" before assembly because the seal is made by a rubber "o" ring which can be easily damaged.
don't know which make I've used but they were supplied by Screwfix.0 -
Call me old fashioned...but I prefer soldered fittings :rolleyes:
On the rare occasions I've used push fit...I think wickes have a good one. The fitting is pushed onto copper or plastic(with inserts) and there's a collar that locks the fitting in place to prevent it coming off.
robIf only everything in life was as reliable...AS ME !!
robowen 5/6/2005©
''Never take an idiot anywhere with you. You'll always find one when you get there.''0 -
I've used push fit on flexible pipe and copper tube, hot and cold, 15mm and 22mm. At first I was very cautious as I didn't trust it to work but everything has been fine.
A few things to watch:
Always use the strengthening inserts at the ends of the plastic pipe before you fit it. If you don't the joint will fail.
Make sure that the pipe or tube is pushed right in, try pulling it out (it shouldn't) and then give it another push to make sure it's fully home.
The plastic pipe is flexible and is great for threading around obstructions but it may need supporting with pipe clips as it isn't rigid and will sag.
Plastic pipe comes in rolls and will not straighten out completely when its off the roll. Be prepared to buy (the correct type of) rigid plastic pipe or use copper if you need straight runs ie. visible. Nothing looks smarter than a straight run of pipe which curves! Straight plastic pipe also needs inserts.
Push fit will not work with stainless steel or chromed copper tube. The teeth cannot cut into the metal and joint will slide off. If you want to use chrome tube just join with chrome compression fittings.
You can connect plastic pipe directly into compression fittings, provided you've used inserts. That way you can join plastic straight into tube or any connection that only comes with a 15 or 22 mm compression fitting.
Hope that helps.
I've always bought from Screwfix but the last time I was in B&Q they have a low cost line which they assure me is interchangeable with Speedfit and are around the same price as Screwfix. Haven't needed to try them yet so can't validate that statement.Nice to save.0 -
My whole new house is all push fit plastic pipe..
Its great!0 -
Recent thread: push fit plumbing connectors ...0
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Push fit every timeI haven't got one!0
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I've used push fit for all my plumbing thats hidden and compression for all that's exposed. All exclusively with copper pipe. I've confidently used push fit and boxed it in. If you are a resonably competent diyer you should have no problems. However ALWAYS use a proper pipe cutter. NEVER use a hacksaw with pushfit or else there will be trouble!"...IT'S FRUITY!"0
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I'm as traditional (and tight) as plumb1 and robowen. The problem with both plastic and compression is the movement that is available. O-rings invariably perish, it may take 20 years (I've been called out to many an original Aqualisa Classic valve that has simply started leaking without any rotation against the ring, just the age). Using compression in later-to-be concealed spaces can be disastrous if some kind of maintenance work is carried out on the exposed section of pipe and it is rotated accidentally in the concealed compression fitting, the joint is then very likely to weep. I ocasionally use John Guest plastic, it's good to get out of trouble with and in those especially tight under-eaves where blow lamps really dare-not go, but for durability, rigidity and neatness endfeed copper fittings and tube are the only way to plumb as far as I'm concerned.
There was also a concern during the plastic pipe revolution of the nineties (although Bartol push fit was around about 25 years ago I think) that non 'barrier' plastic pipe was not suitable for central heating as it allowed air to ingress into the system there-by causing sludge and corrosion. Having spent all day today trying to unblock and de-sludge a heating system carcassed entirely of non-barrier Hep-2-O I'd be fairly confident they were correct, bearing in mind it's a sealed system and the system appears to have been flushed and treated accordingly.
The technology is amazing, but I don't think it will ever replace traditional plumbing materials such as copper and steel.0 -
Seeing as its a 5 year old thread, I'm going to take a wild guess and say SPAM . Reported.0
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