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repainting doors
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Jem8472
Posts: 1,373 Forumite

In our flat (built in the 1980s) we have some cheap internal doors. Hollow and just a dark brown colour.
I have looked at changing them and they are not a normal size. So it would be a lot of work and money to change them.
So how hard is it to repaint? would they need to be sanded down to bare wood then primed sanded and topcoat? Or could I get away with just putting paint strait on the wood?
I would like to change the look of them but cost is a factor as we are saving for our wedding next year.
I have looked at changing them and they are not a normal size. So it would be a lot of work and money to change them.
So how hard is it to repaint? would they need to be sanded down to bare wood then primed sanded and topcoat? Or could I get away with just putting paint strait on the wood?
I would like to change the look of them but cost is a factor as we are saving for our wedding next year.
Jeremy
Married 9th May 2009
0
Comments
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If its the doors I am thinking of, they cant be stripped, are they flush doors, and a horrible dark wood stain colour?
They can be painted, as I have painted them in the past with ordinary Undercoat and gloss, but you would need a few UC first to cover the colour.
If you want them to last a few years without the paint chipping, as I'm sure they are like a plastic coating and not proper wood, but I could be wrong.
There is two products that are very good to put on as a base coat, this will hold the paint of the rest of the coats, and not peel. chip etc.
One is called 'Dulux super grip', its not cheap, as you get it in a litre tin, not sure if they do it in a bigger size, I have only used the litre size, its water based, so you could add a smidgeon of water as you go along to make it last further.
I did a whole triple dark wardbrobe with doors on top, both sides of the wardrobe doors, the sides, plus a tall boy cabinet, and a dressing table, again both sides of doors, inserts etc.
I managed to do nearly 2 coats with the litre tin.(loaves and fishes come to mind):D , then next day did a thinnish UC, as was slightly labouring trying to cover the supergrip, so thin it down with White spirit.
When you come to do your next UC, you wont need to thin as much, just a tiny bit, to make life easier for you.
Then do your top coats, if going with satinwood, do 2, if going with gloss, do an extra UC.
You can clean brushes in soapy water with the Super Grip.
The other product is .Zinsser Bin', get from any DIY store, it does the same as super grip, but cant be thinned with water, and need to clean your brushes out with Meths, not white spirit.
Again, roughly the same price as the 'Super Grip.
I would definately recommend using one or the other, specially if going over a varnished/stained surface.
Dont forget to give the doors a light sand down and a wipe over to get the dust off.0 -
nice one. I will have to tell my gf. thanks for all the info. a great hlepJeremyMarried 9th May 20090
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Out of interest, what size are they?0
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702mm wide
2004 highJeremyMarried 9th May 20090 -
Oooh they are a peculiar size....you can get 6'8" doors, width is normally 27" or 30". Why don't you remove the 'doorstop' portion all round the inner door frame and replace with slightly thicker, that way you could replace the doors with standard size?0
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I think I see the bit that you mean I could remove. Not sure how eay that would be to do. I would love to give it a try but not sure my gf would be to eager to try it.JeremyMarried 9th May 20090
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You should paint them on both sides at the same time, as it is likely that they will warp if you do not. The strip referred to is the door jamb or door stop, I think. It can be easily removed with a hammer and chisel. These strips are usually fixed with just a few thin nails Even if you damage it, it can can be readily obtained at most DIY stores.I can afford anything that I want.
Just so long as I don't want much.0
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