Failed Mot - :(

BigBouncyBall

Hi

my MX5 has just failed its MOT

"Nearside (outer sill) seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded [5.1.B.6]" - that means a hole the size of an asprin on the drivers side sill - FIX: welding?

"Offside (front to rear going to union) break pipe is excessively corroded [3.6.B.2c]" - corroded break pipe - FIX: partial replacement?

Can anyone help me with this? I don't really understand how long it'll take/how much this will cost.

Am i looking at hundreds or just pounds here?

Cheers

sturll

BigBouncyBall wrote: »

Hi

my MX5 has just failed its MOT

"Nearside (outer sill) seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded [5.1.B.6]" - that means a hole the size of an asprin on the drivers side sill - FIX: welding?

"Offside (front to rear going to union) break pipe is excessively corroded [3.6.B.2c]" - corroded break pipe - FIX: partial replacement?

Can anyone help me with this? I don't really understand how long it'll take/how much this will cost.

Am i looking at hundreds or just pounds here?

Cheers

Go to the scrap yard and get a brake poipe and the anchorage and fit them yourself. Not sure on the Mazda but on a Vectra this can easily be done. New brake fluid and bolts, £20 sorted.

Wig

welding = tenner, if they don't rip you off
Brake pipe just replace, I suggest asking dealer if they have the correct one in stock, if not can they get one fast (usually by next day), they are not expensive even from dealers, and they usually make them up -to the correct length- Should be no more than 1 hour IMHO, more like 30mins.

If you leave it @ MOT centre & repaired within 10 working days = free retest.
The MOT station should have a supply of their own brake pipes they can then make a new one for what should be little cost.

If taken away and returned half price retest.

The savings on the free retest, might be a reason to let them do it.

BigBouncyBall

I've had it done at a place that just does MOTs as i have heard the horror stories of "kind" garages that will offer to carry out the £500 work needed at a special 10% discount today only.

On the receipt i've got it says "Free retest within 10 working days" so i hope that will stand.

Cheers for the advice - I'm not mechanical enough to fit a new brake pipe myself but at least i have a rough idea of what to expect a garage to charge for the work.

Welding ~ £10
Brake Pipe ~ £30

Total ~ £50

Cheers for your help - i was panicking i'd be looking at hundreds for this work, you've put my mind at rest.

Wig

Ask the dealer to give you the price of the pipe, then add about £30 for labour. The garage you use might have a cheaper source for the pipe, ask them beforehand how much it will be for the pipe, if cheaper, let them do it with their own pipe source.

Conor_3

sturll wrote: »

Go to the scrap yard and get a brake poipe and the anchorage and fit them yourself. Not sure on the Mazda but on a Vectra this can easily be done. New brake fluid and bolts, £20 sorted.

NEVER EVER EVER GET BRAKE PIPES FROM A SCRAP YARD. NOT EVER. NOT EVEN ONCE. EVER. USING SECOND HAND BRAKE PIPES IS DANGEROUS.

And you'll also not be able to get an achorage point because its welded to the vehicle.

All it needs is a plate welding on the car (1-2hrs labour depending on how hard it is to move the carpet and trim out the way) and a BRAND NEW bit of brake pipe making up and fitting which will be around £30 if they can just change a short bit or around £50-£80 if it ends up being a full front to rear.

jeannieblue

I echo that Conor... secondhand... and get the pipe from a dealer? Its not a flexi hose - and don't have to go to a dealer for one of those anyway.

Front to rear brake pipe - well the pipe will be 10-15 pounds - not sure of the labour, some of the blasted cars you have to remove fuel tank. Depends where the pipe goes.

Welding - should be around £10 to £30. Various on the welder..

lets not mislead the OP - she has to know that labour will go on top of parts, I know the brake pipe is not expensive, but does anyone know exactly which pipe and if it a straight forward job?

More info on year of car etc. would help.

Wig

I disagree about the paranoia of using a scrap yard brake pipe. Common sense comes into play, if you can remove it by undoing the nut at either end, and it is only clipped onto the underside of the car, then inspect the whole pipe for any evidence of damage - and there is none, then the pipe will be perfectly good for use. Fit and test the brake efficiency, inspect for leaks - job done.

Regards the anchorage point, it is "within the prescribed area" could be 30 cm away from the anchorage. If it is the anchorage itself that is rusted then it will cost more, but it doesn't sound like it is, it's just a small hole on the driver side sill. = £10,

Of course for £10 you won't get any cosmetics, a plate will be welded over the hole and that's it, it will still need to be painted but that can be done DIY, bit of a rub down, grey primer, followed by a two coat spray of presumably red(?) paint bought from dealer or Halfords. The welded plate will also be visible under the paint, but who cares?

Sorry OP, I did not make it clear that the weld for that price is a no frills bit of metal welded to your car, otherwise if you don't make it clear they might think you want it all filled in sanded down and recoated with paint, that would take much longer. It all depends on what sort of finish you want.

sturll

Wig wrote: »

I disagree about the paranoia of using a scrap yard brake pipe. Common sense comes into play, if you can remove it by undoing the nut at either end, and it is only clipped onto the underside of the car, then inspect the whole pipe for any evidence of damage - and there is none, then the pipe will be perfectly good for use. Fit and test the brake efficiency, inspect for leaks - job done.

Exactly mate. Some people have money to blow on dealer parts. Others dont. Im one of those others. And in years of using scrap yards ive yet to have much of a problem.

jeannieblue

sturll wrote: »

Exactly mate. Some people have money to blow on dealer parts. Others dont. Im one of those others. And in years of using scrap yards ive yet to have much of a problem.

A dealer part???

Its brake pipe - you can buy a blasted roll of the stuff for about £20 - why go hunting around a breakers yard for goodness sake! Next you'll be draining off the brake fluid too....

Money saving yes, but come on now! Lets not get ridiculous.

Conor_3

Wig wrote: »

I disagree about the paranoia of using a scrap yard brake pipe. Common sense comes into play, if you can remove it by undoing the nut at either end, and it is only clipped onto the underside of the car, then inspect the whole pipe for any evidence of damage - and there is none, then the pipe will be perfectly good for use.

Because you can tell if they've gone brittle from vibration and how much corrosion is on the inside from looking at it from the outside can't you? You are aware that they can rot from the inside out aren't you?

Another !!!!!! who is willing to risk the lives of the rest of us to save a tenner.