Plasterboard over Artex - is it OK?

brownbake

We have a really horrible swirly Artex on the ceiling of our 70s flat. Instead of the expensive and messy full on plastering over it we were wondering if it was possible to simply screw plasterboard over it and then joint the gaps and get the plasterboard skimmed?

Or would the ceiling need to be battoned and then the plasterboard fixed to that?

We also have plaster coving round the edge that isn't a problem - could the plasterboard be fixed up to that?

Also we were wondering if we had to go with the batten technique could we use insulation in that to reduce sound from the neigbouring flat? The ceilings / floors are concrete.

Here is a pic (hopefully) http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u206/booksgreatoffers/ceilingandcoving.jpg

Any help would be greatly appreciated

lowbrim

Removing artex is surprisingly easy with a steamer so in my view that would be an option. I found it out after 2 days of rubbing down artexed walls!!

Having said the above why don't you just have it skimmed by a plasterer you are going to end up doing this anyway whether you put plasterboards up or not. There a various bonds (unibond etc) that can be put on to enable it to be plastered over and it is a quick simple job. You just need a good plasterer and watch out for the cowboys.

deafpaul

if you are going to plaster board then kave it skimmed after why don't you just have it skimmed and save money on the plasterboador may be try this

http://www.focusdiy.co.uk/invt/100977

brownbake

We are not necessarily going to have the plasterboard skimmed if we could just get away with jointing it - I need advice.

The reason for going the plasterboard route is that it would help deaden sound?? We like loud bass heavy music and our neighbours dont!

Also because there is quite a bit of large furniture and are trying to cut own on mess.

Thanks for the replies so far - any help from plasterers or dry liners?

lifesuckssometimes

Make sure you get a metal/wood detector to locate joists.. Mark out ceiling where they are and double check if doing it yourself..

i will be honest get someone in to do it is a pain of a job even when you have joists to work to.

missile

You would have to replace the coving if you fit plasterboard.

Listening to neighbours music is ......... , get yourself some headphones.

aliasojo

You can plasterboard over the ceiling as it it as long as you locate joists accurately and screw the boards to the joists using long plasterboard screws.

The more usual way is to batton out the ceiling using 2" x 1" timber which again has to be screwed to joists and then fix the new plasterboard to the timber. You can get 25mm acoustic slab insulation which you could use inbetween the timber battons and also use 12.5mm Soundbloc plasterboard instead of normal stuff which would help deaden sound transfer.

Whichever way you do it, you will have to be careful of the ceiling light wiring...a screw through that could cause problems as I'm sure you know.

Also, I think the coving is a problem, best to take it down and put up afterwards if you want a good neat job done. IMO. I cant see how you could leave it and plasterboard up to it and it still look good.

The plasterboard doesn't HAVE to be skimmed, it can just be taped and filled. The sticky mesh tape is best....can't remember name at the moment. I've used both FastSet and Lafarge ReadyMix Lite as fillers.....I found the LaFarge stuff to be much much easier to sand, but the Fast Set is much stronger and less likely to crack on ceiling joins.

We just plasterboarded a largish ceiling and ended up hiring a drywall lift as the boards were heavy and a pain in the butt to try to site accurately with shaky arms. Great tool, made things so much easier.

robv_3

Depending the the size of the bumps in the artex some/most plasters prefer to plasterboard the ceiling first. Yes you could just plasterboard it and fill the joints. You may want to use sound *limiting* plasterboard but its effect will be limited at base frequencies but still worth doing.

So its remove coving, stick up plasterboard and full joints. Finally new covering and paint.

If a key point is stop sound, batten ceiling first but use sound deadening material between the battens and existing ceiling. Fill void with insulation.

timnicebutdim_2

Just to add - if your going to be dry lining then use tapered edge board and not square edge as the joints are easier to fill. Also if your using large boards you'll need 2-3 people or a 'dead man' to hold the boards in place when you drill.;)

brownbake

Thanks for the replies. The ceiling is actually concrete - ground floor flat built in the 70s.
I really wanted as little disturbance as possible and quick, cheap and effective. But it sounds like it ain't going to be!! It is quite a big area we have to do to 32m2.

Would it be possible to just screw the plasterboard direct to ceiling and then tape and joint all the gaps and fill round the edge where the coving is or does it have to be screwed to battens?

I don't think the actual materials would cost that much even if I used battens and soundblock plasterboard around £200 but its the doing that is the problem.

Could any plasterers give an idea as to how much they would charge for this area supply and fit? I guess it is probably only a days work if you are used to it and have tools etc.

BTW I do listen to music with headphones but that isn't much good if there are a group of you. At least I am actually being considerate to neighbours.

cargo

If ceiling is concrete.Which as been batoned then boarded you are best having this skimmed.
I say this as batons fixed to concrete are done in many ways but the most common I have come across are fixed via wire.
Terrible fixing method and not for overboarding.
You may be lucky though.
Cheapest way by far skim it over.Will look like new.